Jump to content


Photo

89 bronco exhaust help


5 replies to this topic

#1 MudGoneWild

MudGoneWild

    Duck Tape L'fixer :)

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 11 posts

Posted 30 November 2010 - 08:13 PM

I just got this bronco and all it has is shorty headers on it and I was wondering what all the components i need for it to be a good complete exhaust system. Some links would be nice. Thanks. :)

#2 miesk5

miesk5

    Supreme Commander

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5244 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NJ Pinelands; near a neat overpass
  • Favorite Bronco Year?:1996

Posted 01 December 2010 - 06:44 AM

yo MGW

How about this?

86 w/Summit® shorties, Flowmaster™ 2 into 1 Y, 3 inch Catco catalytic converter, 2 1/4" pipes into Walker truck muffler, & 2.5 inch DynoMax® mandrel bent tailpipe in a 5.0 Source: by my buddy, Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
btw, PaceSetter makes the shorties for Summit
& Catco shows universal products in their web site, but no parts braek-out listings

less info:
85 w/shorty headers & Bassani Y in a 302 Source: by Josh G (moneypit) at SuperMotors.net

less info:
88 w/Lincoln Shorty Headers (92 Lincoln), dual exhausts w/Catco CTO-6005 catalytic converters & hi-flow mufflers in a 5.0 Source: by Ironclad (Jeff J, da Money Pit) at SuperMotors.net

GL!

in my archived BRONCO TECHNICAL

site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php?;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the original page

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
Thanks to All Who Serve


#3 NTexanB11

NTexanB11

    Duck Tape L'fixer :)

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 11 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Arlington,Tx.
  • Interests:'working'/restoring old cars/trks, fishing,camping,traveling, gardening, home up-keep photography.

Posted 20 January 2011 - 03:41 PM

Me likes this set-up,,looks good. how is sound? do you have a sound bite perchance?? you know where I can get the CATCO here in DFW area? I could look/call around I suppose. buddy of mine has muffler/repair shop,, he maybe able to get all thiss tuff for me and do the work. thanx for posting this,,Larry
I've always wondered why auto makers use both SAE and metric bolts/screws/nuts. Odd.

#4 duckdogwhiskey

duckdogwhiskey

    duckdogwhiskey

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 43 posts
  • Location:Gulfport, MS

Posted 21 January 2011 - 05:56 AM

I am set up to have some exhaust work done over the weekend. I have a 95 xlt with a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. The rear bolt is sheared off. I tried to work on it myself last weekend and got brutally dejected by the truck. I am a minor mechanic at best and since the gasket that started this project in the first place is on the passenger side, it looks like a bunch of things will have to be removed to get to the manifold. I tried to get adequate access through the wheel well with the shield removed. That allowed access to the rear bolts, but not enough to do the job. I managed to get one bolt off of each side of where the manifolds connect to a pipe that meets up and then goes to the cat. I'm takin it to the country boy I use when things get to looking like they are a little over my head. My plan is to have him replace both gaskets, then go with a flowmaster super 44. May or may not replace the cat in the process. I will try to figure out how to post a sound bite of the result. By the way, if anyone knows the answer to this one, I would love to know- Where the manifolds link to the pipe im talking about, there seems to be a donut gasket in there or something. Is this right? My guy wasn't sure and I am sure he'll find out soon enough, I was just hoping to save him some time on parts runs if I could deliver all he is gonna need when I drop the truck off today.
1995 Bronco XLT
5.8 litre- 351

#5 miesk5

miesk5

    Supreme Commander

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5244 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NJ Pinelands; near a neat overpass
  • Favorite Bronco Year?:1996

Posted 21 January 2011 - 08:56 AM

Me likes this set-up,,looks good. how is sound? do you have a sound bite perchance?? you know where I can get the CATCO here in DFW area? I could look/call around I suppose. buddy of mine has muffler/repair shop,, he maybe able to get all thiss tuff for me and do the work. thanx for posting this,,Larry


yo Larry,

Your buddy will be able to get you it all, and if he's a really good pal, at his cost which is really lower than retail prices or via on-line "discount" parts stores.

Which sys do you like and Year/ENGINE??

I have some SOUND Bite Links in my site @ http://www.broncolin...x.php?index=574

enjoy & GL!

in my archived BRONCO TECHNICAL

site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php?;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the original page

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
Thanks to All Who Serve


#6 miesk5

miesk5

    Supreme Commander

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5244 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NJ Pinelands; near a neat overpass
  • Favorite Bronco Year?:1996

Posted 21 January 2011 - 09:13 AM

I am set up to have some exhaust work done over the weekend. I have a 95 xlt with a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. The rear bolt is sheared off. I tried to work on it myself last weekend and got brutally dejected by the truck. I am a minor mechanic at best and since the gasket that started this project in the first place is on the passenger side, it looks like a bunch of things will have to be removed to get to the manifold. I tried to get adequate access through the wheel well with the shield removed. That allowed access to the rear bolts, but not enough to do the job. I managed to get one bolt off of each side of where the manifolds connect to a pipe that meets up and then goes to the cat. I'm takin it to the country boy I use when things get to looking like they are a little over my head. My plan is to have him replace both gaskets, then go with a flowmaster super 44. May or may not replace the cat in the process. I will try to figure out how to post a sound bite of the result. By the way, if anyone knows the answer to this one, I would love to know- Where the manifolds link to the pipe im talking about, there seems to be a donut gasket in there or something. Is this right? My guy wasn't sure and I am sure he'll find out soon enough, I was just hoping to save him some time on parts runs if I could deliver all he is gonna need when I drop the truck off today.



yo, your country mech will have the info; such as this;
Exhaust System Parts Break-Out Diagram in 96 5.0L & 5.8L
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Posted Image

NO GASKETS etc that I know of.. some backyd mechs use just chassis grease as a seal...place a thin film around each port. When the manifold gets hot, the grease will bake into a varnish, much like cast iron cookware. The varnish creates an effective seal..some info also by Steve83


Here is some more info on related items:
1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty, Bronco and Motorhome Chassis Vehicles Workshop Manual
same as your yr exc for the number of O2 Sensors.. maybe cat converters...
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Exhaust Inlet Pipe
Removal
Remove the muffler (5230),muffler inlet pipe (5A212) and catalytic converter.
Remove exhaust manifold-to-exhaust inlet pipe nuts.
Remove the exhaust inlet pipe (5246) from the vehicle.
Installation
To install, perform the removal procedure in reverse order. Tighten the RH exhaust manifold-to-exhaust inlet pipe nut halfway, tighten the LH nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft) and tighten the RH nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
Muffler Inlet Pipe
Removal
Remove the muffler (5230). Refer to Muffler in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
Remove the U-bolt clamp at the muffler inlet pipe-to-catalytic converter connection.
NOTE: It may be necessary to heat the muffler inlet pipe-to-catalytic converter joint to break it free.
Remove the muffler inlet pipe (5A212) from the vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the U-bolt clamp to 54-71 Nm (40-52 lb-ft).
---------
Muffler
The exhaust system components are removed, disassembled, assembled and installed using standard tools and procedures. Only remove components to the extent necessary to replace worn or damaged components.
Always refer to the Master Parts Catalog for parts usage and interchangeability before replacing a component part of the exhaust system.
Removal
Remove U-bolt clamp at the muffler input. On Bronco, disconnect flat flange.
Remove the muffler (5230) from the rubber supports at crossmember and frame (5005).
Remove muffler. It may be necessary to heat the muffler/converter joint in order to separate the muffler from the catalytic converter.
Installation
Place muffler in vehicle by sliding it over axle housing.
Position muffler by inserting over the end of the catalytic converter and aligning slot to tab on catalytic converter.
Apply a soap solution to metal support rods on muffler and catalytic converter. Avoid use of oils or silicone since they do not dry and may allow the insulator to slip back off once it is installed.
Force metal support rods through rubber insulators.
Install the U-bolt clamp (U/8500 GVW F-Series/Bronco) and tighten to 54-71 Nm (40-52 lb-ft). On Bronco, install flat flange bolts and tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft). Tighten nuts sequentially in a criss-cross fashion. Tighten first nut to half torque, then second nut to half torque, then third nut to half-torque, then tighten all nuts to specification.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Catalytic Converter, Gasoline Engines
Removal CAUTION: When servicing the exhaust system or removing exhaust components, disconnect all heated exhaust oxygen sensors at the wiring connectors to prevent damage to the sensors and wiring harness.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the muffler (5230) and muffler inlet pipe (5A212) (if applicable).
Disconnect, if applicable, the air inlet tube from the catalytic converter.
Remove the exhaust manifold-to-catalytic converter nuts on all but 5.8L manual transmission (7003) and C-6 automatic transmission Chassis Cab.
Remove the inlet pipe-to-converter nuts on 5.8L manual transmission and C-6 automatic transmission Chassis Cab.
Remove the catalytic converter from the vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the exhaust manifold-to-catalytic converter or exhaust manifold-to-inlet pipe nuts to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Exhaust Shields
Catalytic Converter Shields
Removal
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the four rear catalytic converter heat shield bolts for the rear catalytic converter heat shield.
Remove the two halves of the rear catalytic converter heat shield from the vehicle.
Remove the two front catalytic converter heat shield bolts and the air inlet tube bracket bolt for the front catalytic converter heat shield.
Remove the front catalytic converter shield from the vehicle.
Installation
NOTE: It is important that all heat shields be reinstalled correctly or heat damage to other components may occur.
Follow the removal procedure in reverse order.
Tighten all fasteners to 22-28 Nm (16-21 lb-ft
---------------

in my archived BRONCO TECHNICAL

site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php?;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the original page

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
Thanks to All Who Serve




Reply to this topic



  


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users