1987 Bronco II Issues

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Ostinato82

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So here's the deal. First, when my Bronco gets hot(even driving it for 5 minutes), I have to hold the key over for sometimes 30 seconds before it will even turn over and catch. Its a slow winding sound that slowly builds and builds til it runs without me holding the key over. I've replaced the EGR Valve once and it worked nicely for about a week than the problem came back. I know there is also an EGR Valve Sensor that may coincide with the EGR valve working properly but I cant find one to save my life! Has anyone ever gone through this? Secondly, when it's cold outside, my clutch loses pressure completely. No fluid is coming out from underneath from what I can tell, and I keep the clutch fluid(AKA DOT3) in it. But if it doesnt run for a day or two than i see that the clutch fluid has dissapeared out of the lil reservoir. And I have to sit in the truck and pump the clutch for at least 30 minutes! And when it's snowing outside it's a drag. Any help would be appreciated!!! BTW, this is my first post. I just found this website and I think it's awesome! I love my bronco and I'd hate to have to get sumthin else! Oh btw its a 1987 Ford Bronco II 4X4. Peace and Blessings.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo O!

I'll assume battery, charging an dstarting sys has been checked for free somewhere already and batty/starter relay & starter cables are all clean and tight;

Do a SELF TEST - COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location pics, Bronco & Ford; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.. Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Post any Code(s) found here.

Let's look @ this for now;

Ignition Modules (Ford & other makes) General Descriptions; "...A major cause of failure is heat... especially typical on Ford, is intermittent failure. The car runs okay for a while, then stops. When it cools, it runs okay for a while longer. Then it stops again. And so on. This is a fairly certain indication of a heat failure fault which can be prevented from recurring by using the heat-resistant module replacement offered by us -- and you. All transistors and other solid state components have specific temperature ranges within which they work. If they go outside the temperature range, they either stop working or destroy themselves. Vibration is another enemy of the module since it causes the circuit path to break on the printed circuit board. Testing with simple, hand-held testers (figures 6) will tell the story. Every mechanic who works on domestic cars and engines needs a tester like this one. And many DIYs will have them, too. A third failure mode (figure 6) is mishandling or poor installation technique, especially with the small and somewhat fragile GM unit. It doesn't take much effort with a screwdriver, nor more than a small particle of sand or dirt on the mounting plate, to fracture the case of the GM module. In addition, heat dissipation (figure 7) is accomplished only if the right type of heat-conductive silicone grease is used between the module and the mounting plate. Poor ground connections are another failure mode. All modules must have a good connection between their cases and their mounting surfaces. A fifth failure mode is corrosion of the terminals. Bad connections fail a lot of systems. A sixth failure mode comes from applying improper voltages to the system. Most of these devices are protected from hooking up the battery or connectors backward. However, none of them is protected from over-voltage -- such as that applied when a mechanic gangs up a couple of 12-volt batteries to give an additional starting boost to a hard starting engine. Recap, Modules, used with trigger mechanisms, replace the points and condenser used in conventional contact-breaker or coil-and-breaker systems. Different manufacturers have different names for their modules. GM calls their a (module) (contacter), Ford calls theirs a (module) (modulator assembly), and Chrysler calls theirs a (controller) (control module)..."

Source: by napaechlin.com via web.archive.org

next is da Recall

TFI Module Settlement, Howard v. Ford Motor Company; 84-91 Bronco & Ford truck/van; "...For those model-years designated with an asterisk, some vehicles were equipped WITH distributor-mounted TFI-IV modules and some vehicles were NOT equipped with distributor-mounted TFI-IV modules. Only those vehicles that were equipped with a distributor-mounted TFI-IV module are part of the class. Models without an asterisk indicate that all vehicles of that model in that model year were equipped with distributor-mounted TFI-IV modules..." Source: by tfisettlement.com via web.archive.org

Class Vehicle List

Distributor-Mounted TFI-IV Class Vehicle List

Bronco II

1984 - 1990

Consider Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; & Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service, and Modify All Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks, 1980 to 1987 by Charles Probst

avail @ BARNES & NOBLE, AMAZON, E BAY, ETC.

 
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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo, part II

What tranny is in htere?

Transmission - Manual

1984 Toyo Koygo TK4 (Code X) 4-Speed

1985-1987 Toyo Koygo TK5 (Code 5) 5-Speed

1985-1987 Mitsubishi FM145 (Code D) 5-Speed

1988-1990 Mitsubishi FM146 (Code D) 5-Speed

1988-1990 Mazda M5OD (Code M) 5-Speed

.

For now; altho these sites and aricles don't address your specific issue

Manual Transmission Troubleshooting

&

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/bleedclutch.htm

++++++++++++++++++++

--EGR;

See Chilton Location Diagram @ http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/8968/images/89684g08.pdf

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is designed to reintroduce exhaust gas into the combustion chambers, thereby lowering combustion temperatures and reducing the formation of Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx).

The amount of exhaust gas that is reintroduced into the combustion cycle is determined by several factors, such as: engine speed, engine vacuum, exhaust system backpressure, coolant temperature, throttle position. All EGR valves are vacuum operated. The EGR vacuum diagram for your particular vehicle is displayed on the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label.

The EGR system is a Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) or Differential PFE (DPFE) system, controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and composed of the following components: PFE or DPFE sensor (also referred to as the backpressure transducer), EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid, EGR valve, and assorted hoses and tubing.

85554135.gif

85554137.gif

Clean the exhaust has channel, where applicable, in the intake manifold, using a suitable carbon scraper. Clean the exhaust gas entry port in the intake manifold by hand passing a suitable drill bit through the holes to auger out the deposits. Do not use a wire brush. The manifold riser bore(s) should be suitably plugged during the above action to prevent any of the residue from entering the induction system.

===

TFI Diagnosis

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html

 

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