[2percent]

My 1989 stalls under a load. I have ran codes only thing that comes up on KOER is a code 20?????? cant find it anywhere. And today I tried to read them again, now it wont read that its even getting signal to the scanner. Idles great but if I press gas above 1700rpms it cuts out and dies. fires right back up though with no problems. I put it in gear and I can go about 5-7 mph. But if I tap the gas pedal more than 1/4in it dies. Does not seem to be a vacuum leak as I have checked and all are good. I am thinking TPS, IAC, FPR, am I on the right track here or any clues would be helpful thank you.

parts in last 3 months
fuel relay
plugs
wires
battery
alternator
ignition coil
eec
wiring
starter solenoid

[miesk5]

yo
Abbreviations:
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
CM = Continues Memory
KOER = Key On Engine Running

20 KOER = Cylinder #2 Failed Cylinder Balance Test.
BUT, Cylinder Balance Test; NOTE: This test is only available on 95 Bronco w/1995 CA/MAF/SFI PCM (BIO0) & 96 Bronco; & Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) Engines

So; Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests Troubleshooting in EEC-IV; SIG-RTN, Self-Test Output circuit, etc.
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjec.../index.php?p=44

He has a lot of thAngs to ck in there; but batty voltage is a prime prob.

Try this; it yaks about a scan tool; but swap that for the type of self test process you are using such as the Voltmeter or da cel)

[2percent]

Ok I have ran both KOER and KOEO and no codes where reported. I got a code 11 which was said to be system passed. I played around with it today and found out that it runs excellent for about 3 minutes until it gets warm then cuts out bad when gas is applied. Still idles great and all but cant handle a load. I really don't want to throw money down the drain but I have a feeling it is in the fuel system somewhere. I just cant locate it.

[miesk5]

ok;
Fuel first;
Testing, Bronco & Ford - A high pressure fuel tester must be connected to the fuel relief valve on the fuel rail (a Schrader valve).
ON A COLD ENGINE
Fuel Pressure During KOER Self Test for 92; 4.9 (45-60 PSI), 5.0 (30-45 PSI), 5.8 (30-45 PSI) & 7.5 (30-45 PSI); read more for KOEO PSI Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

or check the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) ON A COLD ENGINE quick Test; "...Pull the red vacuum line & check for gasoline...There shouldn't even be the ODOR of gas in it."
Source: by Steve83

--
have to roll out now; will bbl

[2percent]

Meisk thanks for the help. I havent been able to properly test it yet but they had no smell or trace of fuel in the vacuum lines. But I had tested for vacuum leaks by the spray method so today I started pulling lines to make sure. I am getting no pressure from or to the "coffee can". No pressure to the egr or map sensor and there are only two lines going to the canister (coffee can) should there be a third and if so where would that be ran from?

[miesk5]

Take a look at this; Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal, Vacuum Diagrams & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com
In da First CAL #, it looks like just 2 vac lines from/to that can (Carbon Can, also called da Carbon Canister or da Charcoal Canister, or Vapor Canister, or Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister)

Take a look at this Carbon Can Location & Vacuum Hose Routing Video in an 86 5.0 Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco") at SuperMotors.net .should be = to your year unless I missed somethAng

Yo should see vac at the manifold Port

Overview, Depictions & Diagram; "...The activated charcoal inside the canister absorbs gasoline vapor from the fuel tank (& in certain applications, crankcase vapors) until the CANP (canister purge) valve opens, allowing manifold vacuum to pull fresh air in thru the dust cap, collecting the stored vapors, & drawing them into the engine to be burned. Any leak in the vacuum lines to or from the canister will result in dirty air entering the intake manifold, and possibly water or other contaminants..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net


There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR

[BroncoJoe19]

Hope this helps locating a vacuum leak.

BTW.. Miesk5 is the BEST! IMO you are lucky he took an interest in your problem.

Tips for Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

Courtesy Miesk5 BroncoZone.com. You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Courtesy of TheOldWizard ford-forums... Don't forget to remind folks to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet !

Courtesy Ramnasal ford-forums... Clamp off the hose that runs to the vacuum booster (brake booster) or pull it and plug it. It is possible that the diaphram on the inside of the booster may go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

And one more place that is not always obvious is that the vacuum reserve canister in older vehicles sometimes rots out and leaks, but rarely gets checked. In older vehicles it looks like a metal juice can, in newer vehicles it is made of plastic.

[regarrr]

Mine did the same thing last year. Turned out to be a crappy AutoZone ignition control module. I noticed it wasn't in your parts list. They are relatively cheap and easy to remove and replace.

[2percent]

regarrr, on 08 February 2010 - 07:52 PM, said:

Mine did the same thing last year. Turned out to be a crappy AutoZone ignition control module. I noticed it wasn't in your parts list. They are relatively cheap and easy to remove and replace.

Oh man I did replace that from Autozone lol my wife will kill me if that was it. I just got her to let me buy a 1995 Bronco yesterday. Its been snowing so bad I havent been able to get the truck out of the yard. Tomorrow is a new day though. Sorry I havent updated more promptly I just havent been able to do anything with it lately.

[BroncoJoe19]

IF you have no vacuum, the problem is NOT the ICM, not to say that it can't be bad, but that will not cause a lack of vacuum.

A clogged CAT, or plugged exhaust might cause your problems. Here is a method of checking it with a vacuum guage.

HowTo diagnose a plugged catalytic converter
BogHog... Use a vacuum guage, good explanation.
http://www.ford-foru...html#post165883

Another suggestion by BogHog was to remove the O2 sensor in front of the Cat (which will allow the exhaust gases an avenue of escape) and see if the engine runs better. If it does, the Cat is plugged.

Plugged Cat test with pressure guage...
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=IzyvL5tQLzU

[2percent]

So I switched the ICM today but now its out of time lol so tomorrow I will reset timing as it got dark fast today. If still running bad I am going to test the cat Joe (would have done today but just now saw the post). Will update asap

[2percent]

Timing was dead on And now I have vacuum(hose was kinked) but now it idles rough unlike before. Dont hold me to this though as I am in the process of checking it out I may find more soon.