OK, I may fumble the expanation, but I'll do my best. I'm going with a 95 diagram here, so hope that correct. At the window motor connector, both terminals should be grounded when you are not hitting the button. You say the window goes up, so they should both test ok at this point. So with the window motor unplugged, (may need a helper), push up on the button. Use the test light to figure out which one is power. Hook the ohm meter to the other terminal and any ground, and you should have continuity. Its has to be there since the window goes up, so you may have to search around for a bit for a good contact. once you establish how the good circuit works, you can check the bad one. switch the meter to the other tab in the connector, and hit the down button. if the one side has power, and the other no ground, your on the right path. Now go over to the master switch on the drivers door. The white/yellow and the tan/light blue wires are the ones that run the right window motor. Test those two wires the same way as the plug from the window motor. push up on the button, one will be hot, the other will be ground. Now push down, and the wires should reverse. If the master switch is bad, you will have power and ground in the up position, but only power in the down position. If the Pass switch is bad, you will have power and ground in both positions. The pass switch gets its ground from the drivers side motor, and if the drivers window works fine, and pass side goes up, just not down, your problem is between the master switch and the motor. Whew...Hope that helps you out some.