My 1970 Bronco runs great but after about 10 miles and cutting it off, it wants to drag and is hard to start. After taking it to many mechanics, they all said it was the points and all of them said they set the timing and it was fixed but I continue to have this problem. I was told by a friend/mechanic that one of these items might fix the problem: ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR or a SOLID-STATE ELECTRONIC IGNITION. Any help would be great, this forum is my last hope!!!
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Starting problems
#2
Posted 16 June 2009 - 12:43 PM
"they all said it was the points"
I seriously doubt that..! If it starts cold.., it should start every time.
First things that come to mind is;
-weak/failing starter
-dead cell in batt.
-dirty batt. cables
-timing to far adv.
-vapor-loc due to heat Where R/U..??
Elect. ignition wouldn't hurt a thing but I doubt it'll solve this prob.
I seriously doubt that..! If it starts cold.., it should start every time.
First things that come to mind is;
-weak/failing starter
-dead cell in batt.
-dirty batt. cables
-timing to far adv.
-vapor-loc due to heat Where R/U..??
Elect. ignition wouldn't hurt a thing but I doubt it'll solve this prob.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
#3
Posted 16 June 2009 - 12:44 PM
old school d, on Jun 16 2009, 12:27 PM, said:
My 1970 Bronco runs great but after about 10 miles and cutting it off, it wants to drag and is hard to start. After taking it to many mechanics, they all said it was the points and all of them said they set the timing and it was fixed but I continue to have this problem. I was told by a friend/mechanic that one of these items might fix the problem: ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR or a SOLID-STATE ELECTRONIC IGNITION. Any help would be great, this forum is my last hope!!!
thats what i did went with electronics much easier to work on .seen what my dad had to do when i was a kid. with the matchbook and caring extra parts.
#4
Posted 16 June 2009 - 12:53 PM
Bully Bob, on Jun 16 2009, 12:43 PM, said:
"they all said it was the points"
I seriously doubt that..! If it starts cold.., it should start every time.
First things that come to mind is;
-weak/failing starter
-dead cell in batt.
-dirty batt. cables
-timing to far adv.
-vapor-loc due to heat Where R/U..??
Elect. ignition wouldn't hurt a thing but I doubt it'll solve this prob.
I seriously doubt that..! If it starts cold.., it should start every time.
First things that come to mind is;
-weak/failing starter
-dead cell in batt.
-dirty batt. cables
-timing to far adv.
-vapor-loc due to heat Where R/U..??
Elect. ignition wouldn't hurt a thing but I doubt it'll solve this prob.
I'm in South Carolina, the battery is new and so is the starter. It does starts very well when it's cold.
#5
Posted 16 June 2009 - 02:33 PM
"the battery is new and so is the starter."
From where..? If you use the "Chinese-auto-parts" parts (like Auto Z & the like) you need to get the top of the line..& then there's a chance they will last.
R/U gett'n any gray smoke when it finally starts..? That would be flooding & a carb. issue.
You need to fill-in your sig. info. on your rig so the guessing is kept to a min.
From where..? If you use the "Chinese-auto-parts" parts (like Auto Z & the like) you need to get the top of the line..& then there's a chance they will last.
R/U gett'n any gray smoke when it finally starts..? That would be flooding & a carb. issue.
You need to fill-in your sig. info. on your rig so the guessing is kept to a min.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
#6
Posted 17 June 2009 - 06:03 AM
old school d, on Jun 16 2009, 03:27 PM, said:
My 1970 Bronco runs great but after about 10 miles and cutting it off, it wants to drag and is hard to start. After taking it to many mechanics, they all said it was the points and all of them said they set the timing and it was fixed but I continue to have this problem. I was told by a friend/mechanic that one of these items might fix the problem: ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR or a SOLID-STATE ELECTRONIC IGNITION. Any help would be great, this forum is my last hope!!!
I would make sure your choke is actually pulling open when warm and switch to pertonix in distributor.
1974 bronco sport 302 m/t 2150 carb dual tanks
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