I have a 72 Bronco with a 302, manual 3spd column shift, and manual steering. I got a powersteering pump, a rock crawler gearbox, and the conversion bracket needed to mount the gearbox. With the gearbox and conversion bracket bolted to the frame, the conversion bracket has the gearbox mounted closer to the inner fender panel and the splined input shaft on the gearbox is 5 or 6 inches closer to the steering column. With very little length adjustment, my steering shaft is way too long, and the inner fender panel is in the way. What needs to be done to correct this problem?
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Manual to Powersteering
#2
Posted 03 June 2009 - 09:50 PM
You will have to install a slip joint in the steering column. Most people try to get by without doing this but there is too much bind on the u-joint that connects the steering shaft and the gearbox. If you do not have a way to add a slipjoint then you could install 2 u-joints but then again when you install the shaft it would have to be exactly the right length when you cut and install the joints onto it. As far as the fender wells go, I dont know. Maybe a sawzall would help?
1970 Bronco , 1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 2007 Dodge Cummins 4x4, 2003 4Runner V8 Limited
#3
Posted 04 June 2009 - 08:21 AM
What Crude said., plus;
It's always a "walk in the dark" trying to re-engineer a critical system like the steering.., with the intention of gett'n it done as cheap as poss.
(been.., done..!)
After all is said & done, you could have as much $$ outlay as if you bought the kit.
Having said that.., with some precise measurements., & spline-count.., the suppliers (Tom's for one) can set you up with a "lower" shaft (W/U-joint & the lower half of an already attached "rag-joint).., and the upper half of the rag-joint....possibly already attached to an "upper" shaft.
The rag-joint allows for frame flex., & measurement imperfections. i.e. stops binding.
This would be a "bolt-in"., re-install steering wheel & "GO"..!
(this is very close to stock '76-'77 P/S set-up)
------ OR -------
They can supply the parts & you can cut/pin/weld your shaft if you have that capability.
----------- "SAFETY" being the "key" ingredient here....!! -----------
OH...! In some cases., there is a way to shorten that long stock shaft., drill & re-install the pin & re-use the "BELL" swivel joint on the box spline. Not pretty but works in a pinch..!
It's always a "walk in the dark" trying to re-engineer a critical system like the steering.., with the intention of gett'n it done as cheap as poss.
After all is said & done, you could have as much $$ outlay as if you bought the kit.
Having said that.., with some precise measurements., & spline-count.., the suppliers (Tom's for one) can set you up with a "lower" shaft (W/U-joint & the lower half of an already attached "rag-joint).., and the upper half of the rag-joint....possibly already attached to an "upper" shaft.
The rag-joint allows for frame flex., & measurement imperfections. i.e. stops binding.
This would be a "bolt-in"., re-install steering wheel & "GO"..!
(this is very close to stock '76-'77 P/S set-up)
------ OR -------
They can supply the parts & you can cut/pin/weld your shaft if you have that capability.
----------- "SAFETY" being the "key" ingredient here....!! -----------
OH...! In some cases., there is a way to shorten that long stock shaft., drill & re-install the pin & re-use the "BELL" swivel joint on the box spline. Not pretty but works in a pinch..!
This post has been edited by Bully Bob: 05 June 2009 - 07:50 AM
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
---Jeep recovery unit---
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) restored & sold..
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
---Jeep recovery unit---
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) restored & sold..
#4
Posted 04 June 2009 - 02:20 PM
Bully Bob, on Jun 4 2009, 11:21 AM, said:
What Crude said., plus;
It's always a "walk in the dark" trying to re-engineer a critical system like the steering.., with the intention of gett'n it done as cheap as poss.
After all is said & done, you could have as much $$ outlay as if you bought the kit.
Having said that.., with some precise measurements., & spline-count.., the suppliers (Tom's for one) can set you up with a "lower" shaft (W/U-joint & the lower half of an already attached "rag-joint).., and the upper half of the rag-joint....possibly already attached to an "upper" shaft.
The rag-joint allows for frame flex., & measurement imperfections.
This would be a "bolt-in., re-install steering wheel & "GO"..!
(this is very close to stock '76-'77 P/S set-up)
------ OR -------
They can supply the parts & you can cut/pin/weld your shaft if you have that capability.
----------- "SAFETY" being the "key" ingredient here....!! -----------
It's always a "walk in the dark" trying to re-engineer a critical system like the steering.., with the intention of gett'n it done as cheap as poss.
After all is said & done, you could have as much $$ outlay as if you bought the kit.
Having said that.., with some precise measurements., & spline-count.., the suppliers (Tom's for one) can set you up with a "lower" shaft (W/U-joint & the lower half of an already attached "rag-joint).., and the upper half of the rag-joint....possibly already attached to an "upper" shaft.
The rag-joint allows for frame flex., & measurement imperfections.
This would be a "bolt-in., re-install steering wheel & "GO"..!
(this is very close to stock '76-'77 P/S set-up)
------ OR -------
They can supply the parts & you can cut/pin/weld your shaft if you have that capability.
----------- "SAFETY" being the "key" ingredient here....!! -----------
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