I am replacing my turn signal switch and cannot figure out how to remove the steering wheel? The horn bar, spring and large nut came off fairly easily -- now what?
Thanks-
Ron
'74 Ranger
302
Uncut
Littleton, CO
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How do I remove the steering wheel? Remove Steering Wheel
#2
Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:24 AM
W/O a wheel puller., (free at AutoZ)
Put the nut back on approx. 1/2 way....with your knees under the bottom of the wheel & pushing up...pull up with one hand at the top of the wheel., & tap on the "NUT" with a hammer.
Don't want to strike so hard as to mash the threads.....if it doesn't come lose., go rent the puller.
Put the nut back on approx. 1/2 way....with your knees under the bottom of the wheel & pushing up...pull up with one hand at the top of the wheel., & tap on the "NUT" with a hammer.
Don't want to strike so hard as to mash the threads.....if it doesn't come lose., go rent the puller.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
#3
Posted 31 May 2009 - 10:24 AM
You'll need a steering wheel puller. (Advance Auto has some cheap ones you can get on a Sunday). There's two threaded holes in the steering wheel for the bolts that came with the puller.
Last time I pulled one, I had to use an impact or the bolts would try to bend.
Last time I pulled one, I had to use an impact or the bolts would try to bend.
#4
#5
Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:32 AM
It is worth the $15 or so to just go buy the wheel puller. That way you don't take a chance on breaking your steering wheel either. I have had to pull my steering wheel enough to justify the price, but if you ever have to replace the blinker wiring or any of the guts in the column, it is definately worth the price.
72 Daily Driver
- 5.0 EFI - NP435 - BB 9" 4.11 ARB Locked - D44 4.10 ARB Locked - Onboard Air - Front & Rear Disk -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
No honey, those were always on there.....
Motorstats.com Your Racing Headquarters
#6
Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:25 PM
Thanks to you all.
After putting my knees under the steering wheel and finding my hernia, I went to Checker.
They let you rent it for free. Of course no one at the counter knew how to use it. I figured it out and put in my new turn signal switch. My brake lights still don't work, but there is always next weekend! I guess that the turn switch burnt and the brake switch as well. I can easily put a voltage meter on it right?
Best-
Ron
After putting my knees under the steering wheel and finding my hernia, I went to Checker.
They let you rent it for free. Of course no one at the counter knew how to use it. I figured it out and put in my new turn signal switch. My brake lights still don't work, but there is always next weekend! I guess that the turn switch burnt and the brake switch as well. I can easily put a voltage meter on it right?
Best-
Ron
#7
Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:37 PM
".... knees under the steering wheel and finding my hernia.."
Now that's funny...!
"I can easily put a voltage meter on it right?"
Sure but I'd start W/the fuse block in the glove.
Then look at the switch itself...could just be a plug/wire off.
There's always bad bulbs &/or dirty sockets.
Now that's funny...!
"I can easily put a voltage meter on it right?"
Sure but I'd start W/the fuse block in the glove.
Then look at the switch itself...could just be a plug/wire off.
There's always bad bulbs &/or dirty sockets.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
#8
Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:45 PM
The worst part about getting a hernia was that I was in my driveway, hard-top removed--for all the world to see. I'm sure I must have been grunting.
I actually have the fuse block detached from the glove box and all of the fuses are good. I'll drop the brake switch(cotter pin?) and check it with the VM.
Its funny that its called a glove box. I keep everything but my gloves in there.
Ron
I actually have the fuse block detached from the glove box and all of the fuses are good. I'll drop the brake switch(cotter pin?) and check it with the VM.
Its funny that its called a glove box. I keep everything but my gloves in there.
Ron
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