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#1 lascassas_camper

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:09 PM

What tool (size) do i need to remove the bolts from my 1994 Ford Bronco? The tops never been off and when I removed the trim, there is some kind of allen head bolt. I tried drilling out the center of an allen head wrench, but it just wasn't the right size. Where can I get the correct tool? valleyview7083@yahoo.com
1994 Ford Bronco XLT, manual hubs, V8, AT.

#2 Bronc76

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:43 PM

does it look like a torx head bolt?

#3 lascassas_camper

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 06:49 PM

Yeah, i guess thats what it is.
1994 Ford Bronco XLT, manual hubs, V8, AT.

#4 Broncobill78

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 07:01 PM

You can get a torx head socket at any Autozone, Napa, WalMart, etc. You can also get them as screwdrivers but you'll want the sockets instead. I haven't yet had one of the Bronco's new enough to use the torx heads so I can't give you a size but they're probably T15, T20 or T25. The auto parts place should let you run out & fit it to see which you'll need.
Dave

People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.

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#5 lascassas_camper

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 07:05 PM

Hey, Thanks! I appreciate it, one more thing.....are the seatbelts usable without the top?
1994 Ford Bronco XLT, manual hubs, V8, AT.

#6 Justshootme84

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:07 PM

On your 94 Bronco, the removeable top bolts are a security Torx, with a little dimple in the center. Your best bet is to drive to the local auto parts store, and get the se that fits. This will save you 3 or 4 trips back and forth for the right one. The rear seat belts attach to the hardtop, so they are non-functional when you remove it. You can retro-fit some older style lap belts for the rear bench., JSM84
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#7 Steve83

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 09:26 PM

It's a Tamper T-40, but you can use a regular T40 if you use a hammer & drift to break out each little peg.

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#8 stusainte

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 04:39 AM

I got a set of security torx bits from auto zone spec for my 95 and there fairly cheap $ and it only takes about 5 min to unbolt all and it s a good idea to have a hoist systemor some friends to help take the top off its not to heavy but bulky
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#9 lascassas_camper

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 10:31 AM

Its off! It only took me about 2 1/2 hours, 3 of the #40 Torx drivers and 1/2 a can of wd40, and a bath....but i got it off. It sure was filthy under the interior trim....15 years of dust and grime.
:rolleyes:
The PO said the top had never been off except for a factory re-paint and I beleive it. I'm going to buy some different bolts to secure the top, those torx heads are too easy to strip out the nut driver and my patience.

***I was looking at the rear seat belt situation (and since the shoulder bolt was bolted in the fiberglass/plastic top anyway) I beleive after a little measuring and with a piece of 1/4 flat steel behind the inner sheetmetal, I believe I can bolt the top of the shoulder belt to the inner side of the bed cap and have it still be functional and safe.
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#10 Broncobill78

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 05:46 AM

I suppose you *could* add a reinforcing plate and run it that way but like JSM84 mentioned, a seat from an earlier truck will have the lap belts integrated into it and is an inexpensive bolt-in. The junkyard I usually go to has several at the moment & he wants $50 for one. Not a bad price really. Do a little looking & you can probably find one to match your interior or toss a $12 Wal-Mart seat cover on it.

Yeah, twisting up those large Torx sockets get old fast. I'm rewiring & doing a lot of body work on a friends CJ7 & wasted a pair of large T50's trying to get the rusted rollbar bolts out. Finally wound up getting a hardened black-oxide set for impact-wrenches. They work much better & it's nice to be able to use the impact instead of a ratchet.

Edited by Broncobill78, 16 May 2009 - 05:47 AM.

Dave

People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.

84 Mustang GT (Great car to lose your license with, I recommend it for those trying to do so)
74 Ranchero (429, c6, Currie enterprises 9" w/Mickey Thompson cheater slicks, 1970 Torino shaker hood scoop)
82 Bronco (Canadian truck, kilometer speedo, dual batteries, hi-output heater, dual factory block heaters/etc)
78 Bronco (400, 33" Fun Countries, fastback softtop)
79 Bronco (460, 36" Ground Hawgs, frame-off rebuild)
84 Bronco (bone-stock beater)
73 Bronco (I only had it 2 wks before flipping & crushing it.)
76 F-350 (390, 40" Super Swampers, ugly ugly ugly fire-engine green/yellow cab w/faded purple bed)
78 Bronco (460, 38.5" Ground Hawgs, Dana 60's, boxed frame, frame-off rebuild)
86 Bronco (only truck I've ever had fall thru the ice & just plain disappear. no end of hassles from the ins. co.)
91 Bronco (25th anniversary edition, red w/grey leather everything interior, 31x11.5's)
88 Bronco (33x12.5's)
79 Bronco (Current project, 4" lift w/weenie little pizza cutters)

Looking for 78/79 parts, please let me know if you have one you're parting out.

#11 broncotough

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 08:42 AM

I use a t-40 in my dewalt 18v impact makes short work of them. I seem to lose the little clips the bolts thread into. I got a buddy with a 91 xlt, his back belts bolt just above the rear wheel well. next time im at the junk yard im going to look for a set.
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#12 Steve83

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 09:55 AM

...I believe I can bolt the top of the shoulder belt to the inner side of the bed cap and have it still be functional and safe.

No, neither functional nor safe. The '92-96 rear shoulder belt is too long to lower the top point more than an inch or 2 - there's not enough room on the reel to store the unused belt, so it would never tighten on the occupant. And it's not safe because a belt running downward from the shoulder creates a compressive force on the chest cavity/spine during a collision, which would break the collar bone & possibly the spine/ribs. It must run at the designed angle to be safe. If you want to modify it, modify it ONLY using a total factory (DOT-approved; insurance-accepted) seat belt system by swapping in a '78-91 rear seat with attached belts.

I got a buddy with a 91 xlt, his back belts bolt just above the rear wheel well.

Those aren't his original belts because '91 didn't have rear shoulder belts, and again - it's NOT safe.

#13 miesk5

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 10:20 AM

For the Security Torx bolt replacement
FIVE 8x70mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts

TWELVE 8x45mm 1.5 Pitch Metric Bolts

broncotough; They are called "U-Nuts"

U Nut Part Numbers & pics - Motormite Part # 45411 Dorman Part # 701-539
Source: by kht428 http://img.photobuck...28/373b2cd6.jpg
http://img.photobuck...28/e750713d.jpg
The ones on the left are the standard size which are too short for the Broncos. The ones on the right are the correct length and thread pattern as stock.

in my archived BRONCO TECHNICAL

site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php?;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

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#14 Steve83

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 10:08 PM

Al
Read the caption of that pic above for bolt sizes & quantities.

Edited by Steve83, 16 May 2009 - 10:08 PM.


#15 lascassas_camper

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 05:01 AM

Good advice on the seat belts, thanks.
1994 Ford Bronco XLT, manual hubs, V8, AT.

#16 miesk5

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 05:49 AM

Steve, Thanks;
I grabbed the info from Ken's Site; Top Removal w/Tool List, & Security Torx bolt replacement w/Metric sized bolts in 92 - 96
Source: by Froggmann

in my archived BRONCO TECHNICAL

site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php?;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the original page

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
Thanks to All Who Serve




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