bronco with a powerstroke?
#2
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:13 AM
A big factor in the ultimate cost will not only be who does the work but how you go about getting the donor parts. You may be tempted to find & purchase the angine & transmission from a junkyard, someone of Craigslist, etc, etc. But if you buy an entire parts truck (or van) you'll be much better off. There are always a ton of rinky-dink mountings or brackets or connectots, etc, etc and if you're running to the junkyard to find each & every one of them it'll wear you out not to mention what all those little parts will cost when added up. You can also do a lot to reduce the final cost by selling off parts you don't need, I have a friend who actually came out ahead when he added everything up but he'd been pretty aggressive about removing & cleaning everything he could find as well as advertising it. In the end the cost of the swap is going to depend largely on who does the work and how much effort you put into finding/getting your parts.
People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
84 Mustang GT (Great car to lose your license with, I recommend it for those trying to do so)
74 Ranchero (429, c6, Currie enterprises 9" w/Mickey Thompson cheater slicks, 1970 Torino shaker hood scoop)
82 Bronco (Canadian truck, kilometer speedo, dual batteries, hi-output heater, dual factory block heaters/etc)
78 Bronco (400, 33" Fun Countries, fastback softtop)
79 Bronco (460, 36" Ground Hawgs, frame-off rebuild)
84 Bronco (bone-stock beater)
73 Bronco (I only had it 2 wks before flipping & crushing it.)
76 F-350 (390, 40" Super Swampers, ugly ugly ugly fire-engine green/yellow cab w/faded purple bed)
78 Bronco (460, 38.5" Ground Hawgs, Dana 60's, boxed frame, frame-off rebuild)
86 Bronco (only truck I've ever had fall thru the ice & just plain disappear. no end of hassles from the ins. co.)
91 Bronco (25th anniversary edition, red w/grey leather everything interior, 31x11.5's)
88 Bronco (33x12.5's)
79 Bronco (Current project, 4" lift w/weenie little pizza cutters)
Looking for 78/79 parts, please let me know if you have one you're parting out.
#4
Posted 08 May 2009 - 10:43 AM
smittybronco, on May 8 2009, 12:44 PM, said:
Wow
If you run with it keep the group informed. As I said, diesels aren't my gig but I'm always impressed as hell when I see someone successfully tackle a project like that (and only a moron or an idiot *wouldn't* be impressed) & again, I can definitely see the attraction if you tow anything heavy on a regular basis. Even beyond that you'd have a solid lock on the whole cool-factor thing. It might not be my cup of tea but I'd sure as hell be impressed if I saw one on a trail ride. There's a lot to be said for being able to idle up the side of a mountain in first gear, or tow your mother-in-law's house over into the next state.
People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
84 Mustang GT (Great car to lose your license with, I recommend it for those trying to do so)
74 Ranchero (429, c6, Currie enterprises 9" w/Mickey Thompson cheater slicks, 1970 Torino shaker hood scoop)
82 Bronco (Canadian truck, kilometer speedo, dual batteries, hi-output heater, dual factory block heaters/etc)
78 Bronco (400, 33" Fun Countries, fastback softtop)
79 Bronco (460, 36" Ground Hawgs, frame-off rebuild)
84 Bronco (bone-stock beater)
73 Bronco (I only had it 2 wks before flipping & crushing it.)
76 F-350 (390, 40" Super Swampers, ugly ugly ugly fire-engine green/yellow cab w/faded purple bed)
78 Bronco (460, 38.5" Ground Hawgs, Dana 60's, boxed frame, frame-off rebuild)
86 Bronco (only truck I've ever had fall thru the ice & just plain disappear. no end of hassles from the ins. co.)
91 Bronco (25th anniversary edition, red w/grey leather everything interior, 31x11.5's)
88 Bronco (33x12.5's)
79 Bronco (Current project, 4" lift w/weenie little pizza cutters)
Looking for 78/79 parts, please let me know if you have one you're parting out.
#5
Posted 08 May 2009 - 11:04 AM
#6
Posted 08 May 2009 - 01:43 PM
92 rust free EB
351Windsor
Traction Lock rear
Warn manual hubs
Heavy duty transmission cooler
12 MPG city
14.6 MPG Highway
Big A$% trailer hitch with electronic brake control
Remote starter and door locks
XM Radio
CB thats been tuned and peaked
Cobra radar detector. Like I need it
Mio C520 GPS
E4OD Front end rebuild and new torque converter
31's
Stock suspension
Stock truck
167k Miles
#9
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:20 AM
78 F-100 Custom 2WD 302, C4, Dana 44, black, a/c
79 F-150 Ranger 4WD 400, C6, NP 205, Dana 44, 9", Walnut Glow/ Light sand, a/c cc
97 Chevy S-10 4WD 4.3, Standard red, a/c cc
#10
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:35 AM
smittybronco, on May 8 2009, 03:04 PM, said:
The Bronco is a *lot* lighter than the typical diesel F250 or F350, so 3.50 or even 3.00 gears will work nicely. Installing 4:1(or 3:1) low range in the case will work great offroad with 3.00 or 3.50 rear gears, too.
This post has been edited by American Thunder: 09 May 2009 - 09:47 AM
* 1978 Bronco - Newly acquired project truck - soon to be 5.9L Cummins powered.
* 1996 EB Bronco - 5.8L auto, 160k miles- The wife's truck.
* 1977 Mustang II - 530hp 332" stroker motor, C4 "mighty mite", 3.10s in a 9" detroit locker
#11
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:42 AM
smittybronco, on May 8 2009, 10:17 PM, said:
Yup, all things considered that would probably be the easiest way to go. I recently took some measurements between an 88' Bronco & my 79'. The 78/79's have a narrower frame so you'd be looking at both shortening the frame to fit the 104" Bronco wheelbase & then fabricating new body mounts (due to the narrower frame the 79' mounts need to be longer so the 80-up mounts won't work). Once you have the powerstroke donor down to a rolling chassis stripping & frabricating new body mounts as well as shortening/reinforcing the frame isn't particularly difficult.
People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
84 Mustang GT (Great car to lose your license with, I recommend it for those trying to do so)
74 Ranchero (429, c6, Currie enterprises 9" w/Mickey Thompson cheater slicks, 1970 Torino shaker hood scoop)
82 Bronco (Canadian truck, kilometer speedo, dual batteries, hi-output heater, dual factory block heaters/etc)
78 Bronco (400, 33" Fun Countries, fastback softtop)
79 Bronco (460, 36" Ground Hawgs, frame-off rebuild)
84 Bronco (bone-stock beater)
73 Bronco (I only had it 2 wks before flipping & crushing it.)
76 F-350 (390, 40" Super Swampers, ugly ugly ugly fire-engine green/yellow cab w/faded purple bed)
78 Bronco (460, 38.5" Ground Hawgs, Dana 60's, boxed frame, frame-off rebuild)
86 Bronco (only truck I've ever had fall thru the ice & just plain disappear. no end of hassles from the ins. co.)
91 Bronco (25th anniversary edition, red w/grey leather everything interior, 31x11.5's)
88 Bronco (33x12.5's)
79 Bronco (Current project, 4" lift w/weenie little pizza cutters)
Looking for 78/79 parts, please let me know if you have one you're parting out.
#14
Posted 17 May 2009 - 06:24 AM
You just have to be careful of how high you crank up the diesel at some future point, as it can become so powerful that the axles will snap like broom sticks. I mean that literally. With the addition of an aftermarket injector pump, big injectors, and a big turbo, the mechanical Cummins can make 600+hp and 1000+ ft/lbs of torque.(and still be 100% reliable, btw) You will need serious axles to hold up to that kind of power.
You need to forget what you're used to using for rear gears with a gas motor, because a diesel makes torque at such low rpm. A diesel will want 3.00 gears or possibly higher, since it makes it's 440 ft/lbs of torque at only 1600 rpm. With 35" tires, in 1:1 trans gear(3rd), and 3.50 rear gears, the motor will be turning 2000 rpm at 55 mph, which is slightly higher than optimal for fuel mileage, but it will work decently. Optimal would be cruising just at the beginning of the motor's peak torque so you're able to climb hills in high gear but still keeping the motor revs down, so 1400-1500 rpm at 60 would be as good as it gets. With overdrive, that's easier to attain, but then you need to use a separate computer controller for the E4OD trans so it shifts properly behind the diesel. (also available from fordcummins.com)
I'm not using my Bronco for pulling heavy loads, so I'll take the cheaper simpler route and just install higher rear gearing if needed.
Also, if you only want a powerstroke diesel in it, then the 7.3L motor would be a much better swap than a 6.0. It will get better fuel mileage and last longer than the 6.0. The 7.3 with factory trans adapter will bolt right up to a C6, and the mounts wouldnt be a big deal to use from a super duty, even if they need some tweaking to fit correctly. They sell vacuum controllers for the modulated automatics that run off the injector pump, and give the correct vacuum signal so the C6 will shift properly.
This post has been edited by American Thunder: 17 May 2009 - 06:32 AM
* 1978 Bronco - Newly acquired project truck - soon to be 5.9L Cummins powered.
* 1996 EB Bronco - 5.8L auto, 160k miles- The wife's truck.
* 1977 Mustang II - 530hp 332" stroker motor, C4 "mighty mite", 3.10s in a 9" detroit locker
#15
Posted 23 June 2009 - 02:37 AM
21 Dodge hot rod 350 small block, 8' rear end, straight axle front end, 40 ford brakes all around, home built
53 Ford F100 stock 223 6 cylinder/ 3 speed overdrive, mild hot rod
95 Dodge 2500 4x4 cummins 5 speed leveling kit/35 BFG A/Ts, fuel plate/injectors/intake/exhaust/turbo coming soon!
56 Ford Country wagon 351c/C4 daily driver

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