Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
BroncoJoe19, Thanks for your reply. I tried your suggestion and the fuel gauge still moves from where the fuel level should be and past full and back again. When I statred the bronco the gauge was in the correct postion and when I put the bronco in reverse and back out the fuel gauge starts moving.
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> Remove the instrument cluster and then pop the VR off the film circuit - it's a metal box with 2 brass snaps. They're available at most parts stores for a few bucks. The hardest part will be getting the headlight & wiper knobs off, so post again if you need instructions on that.In this photo, counting from the RIGHT, it's between the 2nd & 3rd black bulb holders along the top of the cluster. You can see the hex ***** holding the mounting tab, and just below that, you can see the 2 brass snap terminals.My 89 did that before failing totally but I do believe it is a floating tank and a lot of older model vehicles do this.
I figured as much..but for the age of the truck (mine 89 too) it does have a lot of electronics.. I know on my new truck the guys on the forums say the gauge is electronc controlled - Basicly the needle doesn't move when the floater in the tank moves..it calculates when braking/accelating/up or down hills/ and adjusts properly. Didn't know if maybe the Bronco has something kinda simular..
I know what you mean My xlt is loaded and wires everywhere. Trying to get mine running right again as we speak just set timing now I gotta let the battery charge again.
There has been no damage to the sending units when they are removed. I am not sure if the 96 Bronco has a baffle or a slosh module. The sending units were checked to be good going in the tank and check bad when taken out. They did take two of them apart and they said they looked 10 years old where the grate is worn and they were only a few weeks old.I don't know what a var resistor is but I have left a message for the tech to look into that. As said before they started at the battery and went to the tank cleaning connections, adding ground to the tank and checking with an ohm meter and the last one was fine for 4 weeks and the sending unit started making the gauge go from where the fuel level is to way past full and back and fourth to all levels.Bill,
I now know its time to go to the Regional Service Manager and get them involved in this; I am guessing you have a heckuva lotta $$$ in this already.
BTW, ask the mech if he thinks the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR)is da problem; if he says ... yeah.. get away from him ASAP!
this is for PRIOR YEAR FORDS & BRONCOS
Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) Location & Causes of Erratic Gauges; "...The cluster "voltage regulator" is going bad, and staying on too long, sending too much current through the gauges & sensors. It has finally locked on, and is burning out your sensors every time you turn your key on.
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
And by an old pal, Mullet; "... believe the 87 (88 for sure) and later Fords do not use an IVR. They use a system of small coils built into the gauge and depend on variable voltage sending units to function. Best indication of a bad IVR use to be the temp and fuel gauges performing radically at the same time since the constant voltage side of the gauges were receiving a wrong or intermittent voltage. If your fuel gauge is bad, it is probably the sender in the tank that is bad. Ford trucks from about 86 to 92 are famous for this problem..."
One thAng I need to know again... was the last sending unit tested and shows up bad? any signs of physical damage to the unit? If so, I am thinking that the tank's baffle is loose o broken pievces are damaging the sender.
If no damage, then is the var resistor open or erratic during the test?
