Lift kit install question

I am in the process of installing a 3 1/2" suspension lift on my truck. I am attempting this in my garage and all I have is regular size jackstands.

I am worried about not having enough height to lower the front axle enough to get the old coils out and the new taller ones installed.

My thoughts are if I use a floor jack to lower the axle to get the springs out, then raise the axle back up to set it on jackstands in order to to remove the radius arms for the new bushings.

But once the front axle is on jackstands, how do I move the axle forward to get radius arms out from the rear hangers?

I already completed the back I will try and post a pic or 2.

Hay Ken..,

You're on the right track..."safety" is the key here..!!!

Chock the rear tires (front & back) & lock the e-brake to prevent any poss. movement.

Strong, non wiggley stands are important. The l'il short stands., extended to their max., is not a good idea.

I put my stands under the frame just behind the bow...where it's flat.

With everything lose., & the wheels off..., leave the pumpkin resting on the floor jack. You should be able to lower the whole axle down, get the springs out..., & roll the whole axle forward on the jack.

It's best to do the "C" bushings on both rad. arms at the same time to get them parallel. Set the axel level & use the garage floor as a point for ea. rad. arm to touch at the same time when all the bolts are snug.

HTH

B

I now see your stands in the pic......what I've done to gain some height, if needed, is to lay down some 4x6's flat to gain the 4" so as not to have to extend the stands to the max. My stands are approx. 17" at their shortest.

All this seems like a struggle the 1st. time....you'll feel good once you get it done.

You may need longer brake lines with a 3.5 lift.

Have fun.....!!!

I can probably bring home some bigger jackstands from work tomorrow to get more height.

I have new brake lines for the front and rear. I will have to buy the parking brake cables mine were too tight.

So I can remove the radius arm hanger nuts while the springs are still attached?

For shifting/safty..., I would leave the nuts on......you could back'm off but leave several threads in.

Take'm off when ready to roll forward.

REASON.....there may be some (careful) pulling & tugging.

Just a side note; you can get "to high" with the stands...creating a slip-point where they meet the frame...if ya get my drift.

BTW.., that's going to be a nice looking rig...!!! :-B

Thanks! I sorta felt bad about cutting the rear quarters, because they were rust free. But once I got the rear done and put the tires on......I thought this is what I always wanted.

By the way those 10 leaf rear spring packs kicked my butt......I was on the sofa all day trying to recover.

Tomorrow I will get back out to start on the front.

For the front end, I have always put cinder blocks under the front frame ends and then put my jacks on the cinder blocks. That way I have the height that I need to be able to lower the axle down. The last time I did this was back in Oct. last year when I replaced a 3.5" set w/a 5.5" set. Just to give you a height measurement, the bottom of the grill measured 28" off the ground with the 3.5" springs, but those were super settled. I bet that they were only giving me 1-2" of lift at the time. So that gives you an idea of how high you need to get the front end to be able to just let the springs & axle dangle. After I was done though, with the new coils, that same measurement went to 33". I actually gained 5" in height over an old lift.

"By the way those 10 leaf rear spring packs kicked my butt......"

Same here..!..., the 1st. time.

The 2nd one was fast & easy.

Take your time...don't rush. Again "safety" when you have that much weight in the air.

No beer 'til it's back in place & off the stands..!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Ya know.., It seems I had stands at the front frame ends (like sbolt said) as well as back behind the frame bow.. just for back-up. Can't remember if the front ones were in the way....I may have moved 1 out of the way a time or two.

Bully Bob said:

It seems I had stands at the front frame ends (like sbolt said) as well as back behind the frame bow.. just for back-up. Can't remember if the front ones were in the way....I may have moved 1 out of the way a time or two.

Click to expand...

Yes, they do get in the way when you need to be in there at times /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I need help I am stuck on what to do next.

I have everything out and now I am ready to slide the front axle forward. Do I take the C-bushings caps off and separate the front axle from the raduis arms. Then go back and remove the arms from the hangers?

OR????

Do I try to remove the axle and arms as one assembly???

"Do I try to remove the axle and arms as one assembly??? "

Sure... if the radius arm bushings are shot & don't bind with the axle so low.

If you don't have help...they may "drop" to the floor..maybe set some wood blocks on the floor.

Either way would work...

The C-bushing cap-bolts turn hard (& can be a l'il tough to get back in.)

Double & triple check the C-bushings so you get them in front/back..top/bottom (they're interchangable & marked inside.)

I buttered my C-bushings w/grease so they would slip/slide into position better while tightening bolts.

Cross rotate your tightening to keep the torque even.., & remember the two arms need to be parallel.

If not loosen & tighten over & over 'til they are.

You can work one side then the other., back & forth., to help keep them parallel

I popped the caps out and then slid the axle forward. Then went back and removed the radius arms, it worked out easy enough.

NOW..... :angry:

I am having trouble tightening the new C-bushings......I have the bolts started somewhat easy enough.

1st time on the right side....I put the cap on upside down DOH!

Then on the other side I made sure the cap was right side up......got the bolts started then realized the radius arm was upside down....DOH!!!......DOH!!!!

My problem now is that when I tighten the cap bolts I cannot seem to keep the tip of the radius arm on the floor. It always want to come up about 1 inch. I tried five or 6 times.....Seems like the bottom of the cap hits the radius arm and there is still about a 1/2 gap at the top.

It was getting late so I had to stop. Any ideas?

Is it normal to come up that inch or so.......as long as I get the other side to match would that be ok?

"Is it normal to come up that inch or so.......as long as I get the other side to match would that be ok?"

Should be OK.....as long as everything is parallel..the axle tubes parallel with the floor. The arm ends can rest on some equal height blocks....doesn't have to be the actual floor. What I meant was., when completed, if the axle were rotated, both tips would hit the deck (or blocks) at the same time.

When tightened., the rad. arms can only end up in one place because of the bushing design..save some variation due to tightening sequence.

If the Radius arms only end up in one place minus the variation for the tightening sequence......If the tips are off less than a quarter inch...is that enough to create the bronco lean?

Is there a margin for an error or do they have to be absolutely perfect?

IMHO

I think you'll be good to go with that....!

To be absolutly sure., you could call one of the EB stores... (don't know where you are.?)

They've done many & might confirm.

Tomorrow it is supposed to be warmer, so I will get an early start on putting it back together.

I am just glad every bolt came out just using a ratchet and socket.

I did have to go to 3/4 drive ratchet on a few bolts.

I am also glad that I found this site and thankful for all the help with my project.

Again thank you for the advice. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Ken

Don't fret I am not done asking questions......many more to come!!!

You forgot to mention how many knuckle cuts & pinched fingers.....???

If "NONE" ...then you're the winner...!!! >

& your welcome.....you get to walk the next guy thru this project... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Man, you got off easy. I had to torch the end nuts off my radius arms last time. They were froze on and a royal pain in the a$$. One last thing, make sure you get the cups touching or you won't get the spring buckets on. And when you go to put the springs back in, start the retainer clip and have the bolts only in by 2-3 threads and ***** the springs into place on the bottom & then you will be able to pop the top of the spring onto the frame bucket rather easily. You sound like you are on the down hill side of it now.

Ok ......1st real attempt tightening the C-Bushings I have the tips with in 1/8 of an inch of each other...so I hope that will be close enough and I ran with it.

Now my concern is the new coils. Is it normal for the 3 1/2 coils to bow out a little???

I attached pics of both sides. I can see why the would bow out just due to there height compared to the stock coils.

Everything appeared to seat well.

See like I said I was not done asking questions

Ouch...!!!

1) I hate to scare you, but..., R/U 100% sure the C-bushings are in correctly...?

2) You might need larger degree C-bushings.



I can see the diff. pinion is pointing straight at the U-joints. (I think there should be more downward angle)

Is it still dangling, or is the weight on the suspension.? It will line up better with the weight on it.

You know who's been thru this a bunch is Broncoholics.., if you PM him.., I'm sure he would be glad to advise you.

He did an article on leveling coils.

This has come up on this board a time or two...., so maybe someone will chime in as well.

(You may have to start a new topic to catch some attention)