HELP! I GOT A 79 BRONCO AND A FEW DAYS LATER I DECIDED TO START HER AND I ACTUALLY MELTED THE BATTERY RELATED WIRES IN THE SOLENOID. I BOUGHT A NEW SOLENOID AND GOT WIRE TERMINALS (FUSIBLE LINKS) BECAUSE THE SMALLER WIRES THAT ACTIVATE THE SOLENOID SINCE THESE WERE SIMPLY CRIMPED BY THE BATTERY CABLE. ANYWAY THE THING IS AFTER SWAPPING THE SOLENOID AND MAKING THE WIRES HAVE TERMINALS THE TRUCK HAD AN AWFULL PROBLEM. THE TRUCK NOW STARTS AT NAY TIME. LET ME EXPLAIN- WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH IS IN OFF AND THE KEY REMOVED, THE TRUCK CRANKS BUT DOESNT START IF I CONNECT THE BATTERY CABLE. I TRIED TO CHANGE THE ORDER OF THE WIRES BACK AND FORTH AND EVEN TRIED TO LEAVE WIRES DISCONNECTED FROM THE SOLENOID. STILL IT REPEATED THE SAME behavior. THE ONLY MOMENT THE TRUCK DIDNT ACT WASWHEN I REMOVED THE TWO WIRES THAT SHARE A TERMINAL BUT HAVE A FUSIBLE LINK EACH. IN OTHER WORDS THE ONES THAT GIVE POWER TO THE REST OF THE TRUCK. I DONT KNOW WHAT ESLE TO DO HELP ME PLEASE I NEED THIS TRUCK FOR COLLEGE AND I CANT KEEP MISING CLASS DUE TO PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION.
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STARTER AND SOLENOID HELP!
#2
Posted 26 February 2009 - 03:56 PM
DASBRONCO, on Feb 26 2009, 07:53 AM, said:
HELP! I GOT A 79 BRONCO AND A FEW DAYS LATER I DECIDED TO START HER AND I ACTUALLY MELTED THE BATTERY RELATED WIRES IN THE SOLENOID. I BOUGHT A NEW SOLENOID AND GOT WIRE TERMINALS (FUSIBLE LINKS) BECAUSE THE SMALLER WIRES THAT ACTIVATE THE SOLENOID SINCE THESE WERE SIMPLY CRIMPED BY THE BATTERY CABLE. ANYWAY THE THING IS AFTER SWAPPING THE SOLENOID AND MAKING THE WIRES HAVE TERMINALS THE TRUCK HAD AN AWFULL PROBLEM. THE TRUCK NOW STARTS AT NAY TIME. LET ME EXPLAIN- WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH IS IN OFF AND THE KEY REMOVED, THE TRUCK CRANKS BUT DOESNT START IF I CONNECT THE BATTERY CABLE. I TRIED TO CHANGE THE ORDER OF THE WIRES BACK AND FORTH AND EVEN TRIED TO LEAVE WIRES DISCONNECTED FROM THE SOLENOID. STILL IT REPEATED THE SAME behavior. THE ONLY MOMENT THE TRUCK DIDNT ACT WASWHEN I REMOVED THE TWO WIRES THAT SHARE A TERMINAL BUT HAVE A FUSIBLE LINK EACH. IN OTHER WORDS THE ONES THAT GIVE POWER TO THE REST OF THE TRUCK. I DONT KNOW WHAT ESLE TO DO HELP ME PLEASE I NEED THIS TRUCK FOR COLLEGE AND I CANT KEEP MISING CLASS DUE TO PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION.
Please don't use all caps, it is considered yelling. It sounds like you have the wires for the starter and the one from the battery to the solenoid on the same terminal or the solenoid is bad and has welded contacts. Can't see your truck so it is hard to say, only a guess. Post a picture of the solenoid.
Another possibility is that you got a start relay rather than a solenoid. They look the same but the contacts of a start relay are not large enough and will weld together the first time you use it.
Fred
Parts replacement is not trouble shooting, replacement follows trouble shooting
Broncos are MPVs not SUVs
Communication: I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I didn't say what I meant.
Some of my pictures at Supermotors http://www.supermotors.net/212
1983 Full Size Bronco with; Ford 8.8" 3.08:1 Rear; Dana 44 3.08:1 Front; WARN Premium locking hubs; 31x10.5's; NP208; Holley 4160 4bbl; MSD 6AL Ignition; MSD Blaster 2 coil;
1978 Saginaw Pump V-Belt Power Steering;
1984 F150 Dash;
1985 351W HO;
1985 Tilt steering wheel;
1993 Mercury Sable 3G 130 Amp Alternator;
1995 F150 doors;
1995 20 inches of rear portion of the tub;
1996 Bronco tail gate;
1996 Eddie Bower Over Head Console;
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 4200 CFM Electric Fan;
Headlight harness upgrade; DRLs; Battery relocated to rear; Under hood fuse box vs fusible links; Upgraded wiring for rear window to 10 AWG;
Always under restoration
Parts replacement is not trouble shooting, replacement follows trouble shooting
Broncos are MPVs not SUVs
Communication: I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I didn't say what I meant.
Some of my pictures at Supermotors http://www.supermotors.net/212
1983 Full Size Bronco with; Ford 8.8" 3.08:1 Rear; Dana 44 3.08:1 Front; WARN Premium locking hubs; 31x10.5's; NP208; Holley 4160 4bbl; MSD 6AL Ignition; MSD Blaster 2 coil;
1978 Saginaw Pump V-Belt Power Steering;
1984 F150 Dash;
1985 351W HO;
1985 Tilt steering wheel;
1993 Mercury Sable 3G 130 Amp Alternator;
1995 F150 doors;
1995 20 inches of rear portion of the tub;
1996 Bronco tail gate;
1996 Eddie Bower Over Head Console;
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 4200 CFM Electric Fan;
Headlight harness upgrade; DRLs; Battery relocated to rear; Under hood fuse box vs fusible links; Upgraded wiring for rear window to 10 AWG;
Always under restoration
#3
Posted 28 February 2009 - 10:53 PM
For the cost of a bus trip across town you can score a new solenoid. I'd try that first.
I had a 78' that failed in pretty much the same way. The ignition cut in & out for a couple minutes then died altogether and a moment later it started cranking all by itself. It kept cranking with the key in the off position & even with the key completely out of the ignition. I had to pop the battery cable to stop it. Every time I reconnected the battery it would start cranking on it's own without the key in it but it never fired. turned out to be the ignition module. One of those might cost you something like TWO trips across town on the bus.
Change the solenoid and let us know what it does, plenty of guys here willing to walk you thru it.
I had a 78' that failed in pretty much the same way. The ignition cut in & out for a couple minutes then died altogether and a moment later it started cranking all by itself. It kept cranking with the key in the off position & even with the key completely out of the ignition. I had to pop the battery cable to stop it. Every time I reconnected the battery it would start cranking on it's own without the key in it but it never fired. turned out to be the ignition module. One of those might cost you something like TWO trips across town on the bus.
Change the solenoid and let us know what it does, plenty of guys here willing to walk you thru it.
This post has been edited by Broncobill78: 28 February 2009 - 10:54 PM
Dave
People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
84 Mustang GT (Great car to lose your license with, I recommend it for those trying to do so)
74 Ranchero (429, c6, Currie enterprises 9" w/Mickey Thompson cheater slicks, 1970 Torino shaker hood scoop)
82 Bronco (Canadian truck, kilometer speedo, dual batteries, hi-output heater, dual factory block heaters/etc)
78 Bronco (400, 33" Fun Countries, fastback softtop)
79 Bronco (460, 36" Ground Hawgs, frame-off rebuild)
84 Bronco (bone-stock beater)
73 Bronco (I only had it 2 wks before flipping & crushing it.)
76 F-350 (390, 40" Super Swampers, ugly ugly ugly fire-engine green/yellow cab w/faded purple bed)
78 Bronco (460, 38.5" Ground Hawgs, Dana 60's, boxed frame, frame-off rebuild)
86 Bronco (only truck I've ever had fall thru the ice & just plain disappear. no end of hassles from the ins. co.)
91 Bronco (25th anniversary edition, red w/grey leather everything interior, 31x11.5's)
88 Bronco (33x12.5's)
79 Bronco (Current project, 4" lift w/weenie little pizza cutters)
Looking for 78/79 parts, please let me know if you have one you're parting out.
People who say it can't be done should not interrupt the person doing it.
84 Mustang GT (Great car to lose your license with, I recommend it for those trying to do so)
74 Ranchero (429, c6, Currie enterprises 9" w/Mickey Thompson cheater slicks, 1970 Torino shaker hood scoop)
82 Bronco (Canadian truck, kilometer speedo, dual batteries, hi-output heater, dual factory block heaters/etc)
78 Bronco (400, 33" Fun Countries, fastback softtop)
79 Bronco (460, 36" Ground Hawgs, frame-off rebuild)
84 Bronco (bone-stock beater)
73 Bronco (I only had it 2 wks before flipping & crushing it.)
76 F-350 (390, 40" Super Swampers, ugly ugly ugly fire-engine green/yellow cab w/faded purple bed)
78 Bronco (460, 38.5" Ground Hawgs, Dana 60's, boxed frame, frame-off rebuild)
86 Bronco (only truck I've ever had fall thru the ice & just plain disappear. no end of hassles from the ins. co.)
91 Bronco (25th anniversary edition, red w/grey leather everything interior, 31x11.5's)
88 Bronco (33x12.5's)
79 Bronco (Current project, 4" lift w/weenie little pizza cutters)
Looking for 78/79 parts, please let me know if you have one you're parting out.
#4
Posted 19 November 2009 - 05:46 PM
AAHHH I remember when my cables melted.My starter went bad and smoked the solenoid,so the cable from the solenoid to the starter started to melt,due to the solenoid sticking,,Had to yank the cable off the battery before it caught on fire..
1978 bronco
351 M
Headers
Dual 3 inch exhaust
C6 Trans
Eledbrock intake
600 holley
DUI distributor
9 inch suspension lift
3 inch body lift
Dana 60 rear
Trac loc in rear
44 frt 8 lug
4.56 gears
40 inch Ground hawgs
8000lb warn winch
Road armor bumper
Kayline soft top
Factory roll bar
http://www.mudspace.com/muddrivermike
351 M
Headers
Dual 3 inch exhaust
C6 Trans
Eledbrock intake
600 holley
DUI distributor
9 inch suspension lift
3 inch body lift
Dana 60 rear
Trac loc in rear
44 frt 8 lug
4.56 gears
40 inch Ground hawgs
8000lb warn winch
Road armor bumper
Kayline soft top
Factory roll bar
http://www.mudspace.com/muddrivermike
#5
Posted 30 November 2009 - 05:02 PM
muddrivermike, on Nov 19 2009, 05:46 PM, said:
AAHHH I remember when my cables melted.My starter went bad and smoked the solenoid,so the cable from the solenoid to the starter started to melt,due to the solenoid sticking,,Had to yank the cable off the battery before it caught on fire.. 
Well I had the same problem. After I got the wires on the solenoid corrected. It started up several times and the NEW NAPA STARTER went out. The starter had only started the bronco about 50 times. The starter did hang up for about 1 minute. Even though I bought the starter aboput 5 years ago----I wonder if the warranty is still good.? Since the store I got it at is closed- ,but their is anopther NAPA close buy-but my luck--mine is not in their computer--so much for LIFETIME WARRANTY-----HAHA------
#6
Posted 30 November 2009 - 06:07 PM
Only things i can think of is the solenoid itself or your igniton switch in the cab. With so much electricity running through all those little metal parts, things tend to get welded and fused. Change the solenoid, and if you dont mind spending the time and cash replace all the cables as well.
As for the ignition switch in the cab, it could be stuck "ON" without the key even moving. I have a '91 and the ignition is a little rough. I am by no means an expert this is just a speculation. good luck.
As for the ignition switch in the cab, it could be stuck "ON" without the key even moving. I have a '91 and the ignition is a little rough. I am by no means an expert this is just a speculation. good luck.
"To accomplish great tasks two things are needed: A good idea and not enough time"
'91 XLT 302 32" BFGs MB rims ProRyder Shocks 1.5" Susp Lift 1.5" Body Lift Superstock Ignition Hedman Headers Flowmasters Muffler AutoLocker Hubs Sony Stereo Leaky Rear Main Seal Bent Back Bumper
'91 XLT 302 32" BFGs MB rims ProRyder Shocks 1.5" Susp Lift 1.5" Body Lift Superstock Ignition Hedman Headers Flowmasters Muffler AutoLocker Hubs Sony Stereo Leaky Rear Main Seal Bent Back Bumper
#7
Posted 16 January 2010 - 12:16 AM
i had the same problem of the continuous cranking even with the key off. i had just put in a new solenoid from jbg, turns out it was a chinese piece of crap, i put the old one back in and problem solved
1978 bronco ranger xlt
351M, edelbrock performer intake and 600cfm performer carb
newly rebuilt C6, np205
ford 9in rear diff with 31in mud terrains
http://broncograveya...ord_Bronco.html
351M, edelbrock performer intake and 600cfm performer carb
newly rebuilt C6, np205
ford 9in rear diff with 31in mud terrains
http://broncograveya...ord_Bronco.html
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