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voltage regulator on the back of instrument cluster

#1 User is offline   joe bronco 

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 08:37 PM

I have a 1969 Bronco V8, the fuel gauge is always pegged on full. The fuel gauge will go to empty once the ignition key is turned off.
I've read about the floats being stuck but wonder how much the constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?
Does anyone have any specs. on the voltage or advice?

Joe
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#2 User is offline   Seabronc 

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 04:55 AM

View Postjoe bronco, on Jan 30 2009, 08:37 PM, said:

I have a 1969 Bronco V8, the fuel gauge is always pegged on full. The fuel gauge will go to empty once the ignition key is turned off.
I've read about the floats being stuck but wonder how much the constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?
Does anyone have any specs. on the voltage or advice?

Joe


Yes, the IVR operates all three of them. Very likely it is bad.

Good luck,

:)>-
Fred

Parts replacement is not trouble shooting, replacement follows trouble shooting

Broncos are MPVs not SUVs

Communication: I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I didn't say what I meant.

Some of my pictures at Supermotors http://www.supermotors.net/212

1983 Full Size Bronco with; Ford 8.8" 3.08:1 Rear; Dana 44 3.08:1 Front; WARN Premium locking hubs; 31x10.5's; NP208; Holley 4160 4bbl; MSD 6AL Ignition; MSD Blaster 2 coil;

1978 Saginaw Pump V-Belt Power Steering;
1984 F150 Dash;
1985 351W HO;
1985 Tilt steering wheel;
1993 Mercury Sable 3G 130 Amp Alternator;
1995 F150 doors;
1995 20 inches of rear portion of the tub;
1996 Bronco tail gate;
1996 Eddie Bower Over Head Console;
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 4200 CFM Electric Fan;

Headlight harness upgrade; DRLs; Battery relocated to rear; Under hood fuse box vs fusible links; Upgraded wiring for rear window to 10 AWG;

Always under restoration
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#3 User is offline   joe bronco 

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 11:47 AM

View PostSeabronc, on Jan 31 2009, 04:55 AM, said:

Yes, the IVR operates all three of them. Very likely it is bad.

Good luck,

:)>-


Thanks I'll stick a DVM on it and order the replacement.

joe
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#4 User is offline   Bully Bob 

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 10:57 AM

"...constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?"
YES to the above...but, also look for a short somwhere...or wired incorrectly.
That mini reg. (at least on the older ones) has an adj. "nub" for minor fine tuning. (I made my own tool)
You didn't say.., does the oil & temp peg as well with key on..?
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
---Jeep recovery unit---
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) restored & sold..
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#5 User is offline   Seabronc 

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 06:23 PM

View PostBully Bob, on Feb 2 2009, 10:57 AM, said:

"...constant voltage regulator on the instrument cluster has to do with needle deflection? I wonder if that is also what's wrong with the water temp. and oil gauge as well?"
YES to the above...but, also look for a short somwhere...or wired incorrectly.
That mini reg. (at least on the older ones) has an adj. "nub" for minor fine tuning. (I made my own tool)
You didn't say.., does the oil & temp peg as well with key on..?


I wasn't aware that the older ones were adjustable. Here is a page from the 83 EVTM that is still relevant.

Good luck,

:)>-

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Fred

Parts replacement is not trouble shooting, replacement follows trouble shooting

Broncos are MPVs not SUVs

Communication: I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I didn't say what I meant.

Some of my pictures at Supermotors http://www.supermotors.net/212

1983 Full Size Bronco with; Ford 8.8" 3.08:1 Rear; Dana 44 3.08:1 Front; WARN Premium locking hubs; 31x10.5's; NP208; Holley 4160 4bbl; MSD 6AL Ignition; MSD Blaster 2 coil;

1978 Saginaw Pump V-Belt Power Steering;
1984 F150 Dash;
1985 351W HO;
1985 Tilt steering wheel;
1993 Mercury Sable 3G 130 Amp Alternator;
1995 F150 doors;
1995 20 inches of rear portion of the tub;
1996 Bronco tail gate;
1996 Eddie Bower Over Head Console;
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 4200 CFM Electric Fan;

Headlight harness upgrade; DRLs; Battery relocated to rear; Under hood fuse box vs fusible links; Upgraded wiring for rear window to 10 AWG;

Always under restoration
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#6 User is offline   broncotom81 

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 08:56 PM

Hey guys, jumping in a little late here. My temp auge works, voltage works, both tanks work, speedo works. Oil pressure does not and pegs all the way up. It didnt have a sensor when I bought the bronco but the fitting was there (plugged) and the wire. after reading this i'll check to see if it is grounded tomorrow or has high resistance. what causes the false high reading? also, my instrument lights only work with high beams, and what is the purpose of the red light above the speedo? sorry for all the questions
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#7 User is offline   Bully Bob 

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 09:07 AM

"I wasn't aware that the older ones were adjustable."
To be a bit more specific.., it's more than likely a factory "pre-set" nub (rectangular in shape & down in a hole).... but it does alter the needle settings maybe 5-10%.

Tom81
"...what is the purpose of the red light above the speedo? "
Hi beam indicator light.
-----Not sure what veh. you're refering to.....Seabronc is your go to guy for wiring issues. (sounds like some crossed wires., or dirty switches)
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
---Jeep recovery unit---
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) restored & sold..
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#8 User is offline   broncotom81 

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:02 PM

just a follow up, on my 71 the gauge lights were not working with the hibeams (It just seemed like one bulb was working becuase the red light's bulb shined a little on the guage). After needlessly taking the cluster out, I found out that in just the right dimmer position the cluster lit up. After alot of working the old variable resistor back and forth, the dimmer works pretty good now. Sorry for the false alarm...like my wife says, sometimes i ask before i look.

My oil pressure is still abit screwy. If you turn the key on nothing happens (which is right), but when you start the motor it goes all the way up past 90 and never comes down. I bought the pressure sensor from autozone, is it possible it is the wrong one? I dont think I have high oil pressure, its running great. I want to keep the truck stock, should I get a cheap 15 buck oil gauge to use to confirm the oil pressure and then take it back out? I plan on checking the wire resistance from the gauge to the sensor, maybe there is a bad connection somewhere?
tom talalaj
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#9 User is offline   Bully Bob 

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:58 PM

Hay Tom.., you're doing fine..!
"....oil pressure......If you turn the key on nothing happens (which is right)"
Well, sorta. Usually., when the key is turned on, the needle moves fr. below "0" up tp "0" ...then climbs once eng. is running.

"..bought the pressure sensor from autozone, is it possible it is the wrong one?"
The oil press. send. unit is pretty basic but anything is poss. (double check that)

"..should I get a cheap 15 buck oil gauge to use to confirm the oil pressure?"
Seems to me., AutoZone rents oil pres. testing units (actually, for free)

These needle gauges are delicate, yet, lasted all these years. However they can fail. If I recall correctly, there's a pretty simple test proceedure for them in the book.

"...like my wife says"
Smart woman there......... ^_^ ;)

If you complete your "info" pages... it's a lot easier to get help here..... B)
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
---Jeep recovery unit---
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) restored & sold..
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#10 User is offline   Ronco 

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Posted 17 February 2009 - 04:59 PM

THOMAS Talalaj
I finally found you. I'm going to go ahead and assume that you found the bronco that you've been looking for. That's awesome man! Good luck with it. Get back at me and we'll meet up and go riding.
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