I started the removal of my radius arms by breaking the nuts loose and then had to reposition the bronco in the driveway. I pulled forward and the passenger side poped out, and I put the new bushing on it. Thinking I was 25% done, I tried to bring the threaded end back through the bracket, and found what works one way is just that... Then I unbolted the shocks from the bottom mounts, and was able to roll the front end forward, but not near enough to get the end back through the bracket. I have everything supported with jack stands and floor jacks, so nothing drops. What do I need to do now? It appears the bolts holding the radius arm brackets are tack welded in place, but it doesn't look like the brackets are welded to the frame. What do you guys think?
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Suspension Radius arm bushings
#2
Posted 26 October 2008 - 06:12 PM
The quick answer is.., do what you gotta do right where it is..
Moving.., with those nuts off is a NO-NO as you've seen. You might be able to get it back in if you loosen/take out the spring....
Hope you started the nut back on the other side..??
I wouldn't advise cutting the brackets loose.
Moving.., with those nuts off is a NO-NO as you've seen. You might be able to get it back in if you loosen/take out the spring....
Hope you started the nut back on the other side..??
I wouldn't advise cutting the brackets loose.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless.
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
#3
Posted 26 October 2008 - 06:37 PM
Lift the thing up and support it on the front frame rails. Let the axle dangle on it's own or just have it barely supported by your jack. This will let you be able to rotate the axle one way or the other a little easier. Another couple of questions...are you replacing the c-bushings & track arm bushings as well? Are you going with poly or rubber? The reason I ask, is that it might be easier to take the springs out & put the rear radius bushings in then put it back together. I just did this last weekend, but I did all front end bushings, springs & other crap, and it was much easier to manuver the axle around when it wasn't sitting on a pair of jacks.
72 Daily Driver
- 5.0 EFI - NP435 - BB 9" 4.11 ARB Locked - D44 4.10 ARB Locked - Onboard Air - Front & Rear Disk -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
No honey, those were always on there.....
Motorstats.com Your Racing Headquarters
#4
Posted 27 October 2008 - 09:36 AM
I am using the poly bushings from Duff, which I purchased a few years ago, with C-bushings and leaf spring bushings. I already installed the leaf spring bushings, and that was a piece of cake. I didn't think that I would try the C-bushings at home, though, as the bolts appear to have more confidence than I have breaker bar. It all appears pretty straight forward, but I have the feeling that it knows something I don't. I am going to reposition the jack stands as you suggested, and see if that gives me the movement I need. If not, I guess I will remove the brackets, load them with bushings and jack them back into place... unless you have aditional words of caution for me. I am an optimist, so I consider this an adventure, and a way to spend quality time with my boys. Thanks for your help!
#5
Posted 27 October 2008 - 12:17 PM
Actually the c-bushings are fairly easy to do. If you have air tools, it makes it a lot easier, but a 2-ft breaker will also get those c-cap bolts loose. If you do have to replace the c-bushings, you have to take the front springs off anyway, so the easiest way would be to disconnect everything and do it that way. The only pain will be bleeding the brakes, and that isn't that tough. You go about it the same way as I described. Let everything hang as low as possible (takes the energy out of the spring) and unbolt the top clip in the top spring cup. Once that is off, then do the bottom spring cup & the coils will literally fall out. When you go to put it back together, just do the same thing, in reverse.
72 Daily Driver
- 5.0 EFI - NP435 - BB 9" 4.11 ARB Locked - D44 4.10 ARB Locked - Onboard Air - Front & Rear Disk -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
No honey, those were always on there.....
Motorstats.com Your Racing Headquarters
#6
Posted 04 November 2008 - 11:24 PM
Well, I had about 10 hours on the passenger side, and about 2 hours on the drivers side. Just undid everything and wham... gravity did the rest. I had a new braided steel brake line in my tool box, so I just cut the old one after it looked like I stretched the old one way too far. Now, I just have to remove the header so I can replace the brake line. Just another adventure! The new bushings fit tight and secure. Glad I took your advise, all bushings are new and happy again. Thanks for your help.
#7
Posted 05 November 2008 - 08:18 AM
Glad to hear you got it taken care of, the new radius arm bushings are a pain in the a$$ to put in.
72 Daily Driver
- 5.0 EFI - NP435 - BB 9" 4.11 ARB Locked - D44 4.10 ARB Locked - Onboard Air - Front & Rear Disk -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
No honey, those were always on there.....
Motorstats.com Your Racing Headquarters
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