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upper ball joint camber sleeve


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#1 BroncoJoe19

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Posted 22 June 2008 - 01:50 PM

So I'm getting closer to replacing my ball joints. Bought the parts, and rented the press.
The directions that came with the joints state that "THE CAMBER SLEEVE MUST BE RPLACED IN ANY AND ALL CASES OF BROKEN, BENT OR LOOSE UPPER BALL JOINT STUDS."

My upper passenger side is worn.

I called my local parts store and they asked me which one did I need? They had them plus or minus variying degrees.

Originally I was told by my front end mechanic that there is not a lot of adjustment and that the sleeve can only go in one way or 180 degrees the other, and that I should mark it so that I replace it in the same direction.

They don't have them in stock, and would have to order them. Is there a standard sleeve that I should have them order for me? OR do I have to pull it out and put the job on hold until they get the part?

I guess I could do the driver's side first. Examine that sleeve (which does not need to be replaced) order a new one and when that comes in... do the passenger side.
BroncoJoe19... I am not a professional mechanic, nor an engineer.
One should always obtain professional advice before attempting a repair or modification.

1990 Tan on Black Eddie Bauer - resides in North Jersey
302 with 33's on 15s E4OD Speedometer corrected trans
Auto hubs with manual transfer case snorkel

#2 michibronc

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Posted 22 June 2008 - 02:26 PM

So I'm getting closer to replacing my ball joints. Bought the parts, and rented the press.
The directions that came with the joints state that "THE CAMBER SLEEVE MUST BE RPLACED IN ANY AND ALL CASES OF BROKEN, BENT OR LOOSE UPPER BALL JOINT STUDS."

My upper passenger side is worn.

I called my local parts store and they asked me which one did I need? They had them plus or minus variying degrees.

Originally I was told by my front end mechanic that there is not a lot of adjustment and that the sleeve can only go in one way or 180 degrees the other, and that I should mark it so that I replace it in the same direction.

They don't have them in stock, and would have to order them. Is there a standard sleeve that I should have them order for me? OR do I have to pull it out and put the job on hold until they get the part?

I guess I could do the driver's side first. Examine that sleeve (which does not need to be replaced) order a new one and when that comes in... do the passenger side.


'96 Bronco XL
E4OD
351W
31x10.5's
Manual Transfer Case
Rancho RS5000 Shocks and stabilizer
Warn Premium Locking Hubs

#3 michibronc

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Posted 22 June 2008 - 02:35 PM

Hey Broncojoe,

How about getting some superlift adjustables? I know that JBG sells them. That way you can take it to an alignment shop and they can do whatever they need to. I think you might have an alignment in store for you anyhow changing your ball joints (but I may be corrected on that).

Here's the link
'96 Bronco XL
E4OD
351W
31x10.5's
Manual Transfer Case
Rancho RS5000 Shocks and stabilizer
Warn Premium Locking Hubs

#4 BroncoJoe19

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Posted 22 June 2008 - 04:17 PM

Oh yeah... absolutely it is going for an alignment when it is done.
Thanks for the link.
I'll check into that as an option, and give the front end emchanic a call and talk to him about it.
IF they can be adjusted as a part of a regular alignment, that would be great! Otherwise I think one has to pull the upper ball joint and change the sleeve.

Should I ever get a lift, it would be great to be able to get the camber properly adjusted.
Thanks so much
joe
BroncoJoe19... I am not a professional mechanic, nor an engineer.
One should always obtain professional advice before attempting a repair or modification.

1990 Tan on Black Eddie Bauer - resides in North Jersey
302 with 33's on 15s E4OD Speedometer corrected trans
Auto hubs with manual transfer case snorkel

#5 mbtech2003

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Posted 22 June 2008 - 05:02 PM

i've replaced my ball joints before and didnt replace the sleeve. i dont see why u would haveto replace it anyway. plus if ur not changing anything ie adding a lift or replacing any drag link or tierod, then just replace the ball joints and reinstall the old sleve. just mark it so u know wich way to reinstall it. that way the alignment wont be off too much. or it might be where it was before the ball joints went bad.

check ur u-joints, bearings ect.. while there easier to replace them now with the spindle off.
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#6 BroncoJoe19

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Posted 12 July 2008 - 07:12 PM

I called my front end mechanic and he said that I probably would not have to replace the sleeve and if I did he would have one lying around that would fit.

It took me three days, on and off, but I finally got the new ball joints in. In between, I pulled my pitman arm and prepared to replace the lower sector seal of the steering gear box. I broke the tips off of my craftsman snap ring pliers, and bent another cheap pair. $60 for a KD one, so I decided to let my front end mech take care of it when he does the alignment on Tuesday.

BTW... I read a number of threads about doing ball joints, I don't think any of them mentioned using a hammer puller to pull the spindle. I can't imagine how difficult this job would have been without it.
BroncoJoe19... I am not a professional mechanic, nor an engineer.
One should always obtain professional advice before attempting a repair or modification.

1990 Tan on Black Eddie Bauer - resides in North Jersey
302 with 33's on 15s E4OD Speedometer corrected trans
Auto hubs with manual transfer case snorkel

#7 miesk5

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Posted 13 July 2008 - 09:23 AM

yo Joe!

"...BTW... I read a number of threads about doing ball joints, I don't think any of them mentioned using a hammer puller to pull the spindle. I can't imagine how difficult this job would have been without it..."

Ian used;
"...Remove the spindle nuts using a 1/2" drive 17mm socket and a breaker bar.

Once nuts are removed, it may be possible to knock the spindle loose with a block of wood and a hammer. I however, had to get a spindle puller.

Spindle puller AutoZone p/n 27104
Slide Hammer AutoZone p/n 27033
They ran me $45 for both pieces..."

I believe Auto Zone's loan a tool has em

anyay, I recall using a 50's era drill and lousy, I mean lousy bits & 30's era hammers from grandfather's farm..

in my archived BRONCO TECHNICAL

site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php?;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the original page

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
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#8 BroncoJoe19

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Posted 13 July 2008 - 12:07 PM

yo Joe!

anyay, I recall using a 50's era drill and lousy, I mean lousy bits & 30's era hammers from grandfather's farm..

LOL :D :))

That had to be when you were a kid, with NO money... and nothing but time on your hands! :)


Yeah... I remember lying on my back in the rain under my Rambler beating the snot out of the driveshaft trying to get the Ujoint out. One had to pull the rear to get the driveshaft out of the trans, to do the clutch, and I wasn't about to pull the rear. I took a rust shower, with every blow of the hammer. :(

Oooh yeah.... those were the days. :)

And yes... I rented the puller from AutoZone.

Edited by BroncoJoe19, 13 July 2008 - 12:08 PM.

BroncoJoe19... I am not a professional mechanic, nor an engineer.
One should always obtain professional advice before attempting a repair or modification.

1990 Tan on Black Eddie Bauer - resides in North Jersey
302 with 33's on 15s E4OD Speedometer corrected trans
Auto hubs with manual transfer case snorkel

#9 BroncoJoe19

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 06:59 PM

So I called my front-end mechanic friend today to tell him that I finally finished the ball joints, brakes and calipers, and that I would bring it in for an alignment tomorrow. I told him that I couldn't get the passenger side lower ball joint tighter than perhaps 30 lbs when it should be 90-100 lbs torque.

There is a little screwdriver slot cut into the top of it so that one could hold the stud from rotating, while torqueing the retaining nut. Try as I might, I couldn't hold it tightly enough. So I put it together, and figured I would have him torque it up for me when he does the alignment. Simple fix... right? Wrong! Well he just laughed, and told me what I had to do.

Tomorrow, I'll tackle it with the little tip that he passed on to me.

I will have to pull the tire, the auto hubs, raise the caliper, pull the rotor, the spindle, and the axle shaft. Then remove the grease fitting of the lower ball joint, and put a jack directly under it and lift. Since it is a tapered fit, that should press the ball joint stud up into the spindle tightly enough that I should be able to torque the nut onto the ball joint stud. Then ofcourse I get to put everything back together again.

Fortunately I used ample amounts of anti-sieze, so things should come apart easily enough. I hope this little professional tip makes life easier for you should you decide to change ball joints in your rig.
BroncoJoe19... I am not a professional mechanic, nor an engineer.
One should always obtain professional advice before attempting a repair or modification.

1990 Tan on Black Eddie Bauer - resides in North Jersey
302 with 33's on 15s E4OD Speedometer corrected trans
Auto hubs with manual transfer case snorkel

#10 BroncoJoe19

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 03:32 PM

Here's another tip. Don't use anti-seize on the ball joint studs!
I tried my friend's trick, and it didn't work, until I pulled the studs and cleaned them, and the inside of the spindle. I put them back together, put the jack underneath, and everything torqued up as it should.
BroncoJoe19... I am not a professional mechanic, nor an engineer.
One should always obtain professional advice before attempting a repair or modification.

1990 Tan on Black Eddie Bauer - resides in North Jersey
302 with 33's on 15s E4OD Speedometer corrected trans
Auto hubs with manual transfer case snorkel



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