How to change E4OD shifting points?

I've got a '90 bronc 302 with 33 in tires.

It came stock with 31's

I didn't change the gear for the spedometer when the we went to 33's.

I don't know how to explain this clearly.

It seems that the truck is usually running too low RPMs for the amount of throttle.

I.E. it upshifts too soon, and downshifts too late. As a result it is a little bit of a dog, (it is always running on the lower end of the torque curve) unless I get on it.

Now that I think about it, the upshifting too soon is not too bad, but the delay in downshifting, makes it kind of unresponsive.

Is there something that I need to change to regulate the shift points?

I don't have any blinking OD lights, nor any check engine lights.

Should I take it to get it checked for codes?

Thanks in advance

joe

The only two things i could think of would be either a shift kit or a torque converter. My 86 has 33s and the engines bogs a little bit. But i also have a C6 so i dont have all the computer stuff to deal with, it would probably be a pain to swap out converters on an E4OD. I would try to find a shift kit a really look what itll do for it. If that wont work i *think* a hypertech powerIII programer changes how itll shift too. We used to have a 96 Chevy Tahoe that had one, and it made it shift a little firmer, not sure if it changed the shift points though.

If there aren't any codes it's a tough one to call. As a general rule with the E4OD's and the AOD-E's it's the computer that dictates the shiftpoints and it does so based on inputs from the Throttle Position Sensor, speed sensor, MAP sensor, speedo, etc. It certainly won't *hurt* to have it ck'd for codes, plenty of autoparts places that will do it for free.

Now I haven't messed with any of the newest rigs, but it wouldn't seem very far-fetched to me for the tires to be throwing it off at least a bit. If the speedo gear (do the new ones even USE a gear ?) is off then the speedometer isn't reading correctly then at least *Some* of the info the computer is basing it's decision upon is flawed. 33's aren't a *huge* leap in size but then again you aren't experiencing huge shiftpoint differences. It's one of those problems that makes you appreciate a carb'd 351 & a C6.

33's are where you start feeling the effect of increasing the size of tire over a stock tire size. It definitely hits you in the low end and the RPMs will definitely be lower for a given speed since the wheel doesn't have to make as many revolutions to go a mile. Re-gearing will usually correct the low end dog feeling, and also you need to check the speedometer accuracy. If your truck uses a speedo gear it can be changed or if it uses a speed sensor the computer can be re-calibrated, off hand I'm not sure which is in the 90.

Like Dave has stated in another thread, increasing the size of tire on the truck is fine if you are doing easy driving with it, but if you go off road, you may be in for a big surprise. Could be you will be getting towed back or field changing running gear components due to snapping and popping of shafts, axles, or U-joints.

Good luck,

>-

yo!

also, just found this info after looking for somethAng like this for a few yrs.

Lock-Up Delay Solenoid; "...The E4OD and 4R100 units are programmed from the factory to apply lock-up immediately after the 1

I was hopeing that you would have something for me. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I read this, <snip>

<H5 style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5px">Understanding and Controlling the E4OD Lock-Up Delay Solenoid - Page 4</H5>You can adjust the lock-up delay timing on an Axiom LOCK-UP DELAY solenoid.

The circuit board has three terminals which are labeled A,B,C. By manipulating the contacts the rebuilder can adjust the amount of time the lock-up is delayed.

The picture to the right shows the sequence Closed-Closed-Open. Referring to the chart on the next slide, you will see this indicates this solenoid is set for a 5 second delay.

<snip>

which of course led me to additional questions.

Where is this circuit board?

Does Axiom make the E4OD trans for Ford?

And therefore do I have an Axiom trans?

Or does Transtar make the E4OD trans for Ford, and is Axiom a controller card that they use?

AS you can see I am a bit lost here.

Thanks

joe

Joe,

I'm on my way out for all week now; so a quick reply; so no hot links for now Joe

Where is this circuit board? it is on solenoid in Valve body of the E4OD; see my site under:

TRANSMISSION, TRANSFER CASE, DRIVE SHAFT -> Automatic -> E4OD

see:

Solenoid Identification; "...There are three OEM style solenoids for the E4OD/4R100 as shown in the picture to the right. Additionally, Transtar offers two additional solenoids which add a LOCK-UP DELAY to the OEM model..."

Source: by transtarindustries.com

http://www.transtarindustries.com/technicalHTML.asp?ID=10

Solenoid Pack pics

Source: by Ian S (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at SuperMotors.net

Solenoid Pack Removal

Source: by Ian S

Does Axiom make the E4OD trans for Ford? No, Ford mfg. it

And therefore do I have an Axiom trans? no

Or does Transtar make the E4OD trans for Ford, and is Axiom a controller card that they use?

Transtar Acquires Axiom Automotive Technologies

http://www.transtarindustries.com/news.asp

Thanks -yw Joe!

Yes get Codes scanned anyway, esp KOER

joe

more info;

"...You can adjust the lock-up delay timing on an Axiom LOCK-UP DELAY solenoid.." this is on Page 4 of the Presentation Link I cited above:

http://www.transtarindustries.com/technicalHTML.asp?ID=10

From what I can see here; 420E; Solenoid Assembly, E4OD (w/ Variable Delay) 89-94; pn 36420A .

for 95 up. pn 36420C

https://www.transmichigan.com/pdf/E4OD_4R100.pdf

I called Axiom this morning and asked for specifics, hoping they will call back soon; one tech person had no clue and he xferred me to another tekkie who didn't answer phone, I left a voice mail with the Q's.... hoping I can get a tech sheet and pics of this solenoid, price and other installation info; but I have a feeling that they will only reply to tranny shops.

Shift Kit Installation in a 95 C-350 (Centurion Conversions) E4OD ------ for valve body pics. LU solenoid and board...etc.

Source: by BJS at SuperMotors.net

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/7739/30663

Dave and Fred,

I think that the spedo has a gear, that they started with the sensors in '92, but don't hold me to it.

I planned to get her checked for codes today at lunch time, but a friend called and we went out for lunch instead. So now it looks like it will be Wednesday or Thursday before I can look at it al all.

Interesting though, on Friday when I started her to move her out of the driveway, and then again today when I started her to jockey her around into a different parking space, I had a little surging of the idle, kinda like a cold carbureted engine with the choke not properly set. So now I am really interested in getting codes. I plan to get codes, and whatever gear I need to properly set the spedometer.

Miesk5,

Thanks for all the info, I hope that after you speak with a tech at Axiom, you will be able to explain all this stuff to me. Am I mistaken, but won't a delayed locking just really make for a softer shift between gears? I'm not looking for a softer shift, but rather I would like it to keep my RPMs a little higher when the engine is under load. So it has to downshift a little sooner.

Also, since I never even saw the inside of an auto trans, other than a picuture, it would scre the living em heck out of me to consider taking one apart to break, and or change the soldering points. Is that solenoid very easily accessible? Is it inside the trans?

Again... thanks for your help.

joe

IMO this was a great post on another forum, and pertains to

'92-97 F-Series & Broncos.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55005

The "PSOM" is the (electronic) Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module, which was used on '92-97 F-Series & Broncos. Some Econolines & Aerostars also used it. Earlier trucks use a cable-driven mechanical speedo/odo, & later ones use an electrically-driven speedo with a motor-driven mechanical odometer; both of which are calibrated by changing the plastic gears in the transfer case tailhousing (or transmission tailhousing on 2WD).

Resetting the PSOM is EASY: it uses the "conversion constant" to calculate the vehicle speed from the sensor frequency. more...

Joe,

Your 90 doesn't have the PSOM.

Axiom didn't call me back.

And I searched a little and think that Axiom doesn't mfg. that solenoid; either Rostra or another mfg produces it for Axiom. What a web they weave!

-----------

and "Am I mistaken, but won't a delayed locking just really make for a softer shift between gears? I'm not looking for a softer shift, but rather I would like it to keep my RPMs a little higher when the engine is under load. So it has to downshift a little sooner."

We have 2 thAngs going on here Joe; first, is to change the speedo gears for the 33's

next is that the Lock Up Delay Solenoid will allow the tranny to stay in gear longer, thus allowing the engine to build up RPM's (thus increasing the HP/Torque curve)

A "soft shift- upwards) is more like engine RPMs increasing, but "slippage" occurring in tc/tranny plates..etc.,, robbing torque/hp to rear wheels (in 2wd mode)

Same for dnshifts

Thanks to Miesk5 for this.

Bronco's prior to 1992 uses a geared speedometer/odometer

Gears for 2WD manual trans Ford vehicles & all 4WD pre-92 trucks

Source: by Fireguy50

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109671

This link teaches one how to calculate which gear should be used to replace their present gear to recalibrate the spedometer due to either gearing or tire size changes.

OK Guys, I crawled under my truck to read the rear diff tag, found out that I have 3.55 gears, and pulled my spedo cable at the transfer case to take a look at the color of the present gear. It looked like a cream color. It might have been a faint pink with gear oil on it, or it might have been white with gear oil on it. With larger tires I would need a gear with fewer teeth. I did the calculations hoping that the internal gear has 8 teeth. I ordered an 18 tooth yellow gear. IF the present gear is the pink 19 tooth gear, that should correct my spedometer cable. If its not too cold and windy, I'll know tomorrow.

Something I found of interest is that there is a sensor just outside the transfer case at the end of the speedo cable. I had to look it up, and was a little dissapointed to discover that it is the cruise control speed sensor. I am guessing that cruise control was an option, and that the speed sensor does not supply info to the PCM to aid in shifting points of the trans. I'm hoping that I am wrong.

However as BroncoBill78 stated the TPS is one of the sensors that helps the PCM determine shift points. Guess what? Once again.. the FORCE is with me. The Bronc just started idleing funny, and when I pulled codes I got a bad TPS code KOEO and KOER, AND a code 32 EVP (EGR Valve Position Sensor) circuit has intermittently failed... below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.

The EVP code has me thinking, do I get myself a hand vacuum pump to differenciate between the sensor, or the EGR valve, or just swap out the parts.

BroncoJoe19 said:

Something I found of interest is that there is a sensor just outside the transfer case at the end of the speedo cable. I had to look it up, and was a little dissapointed to discover that it is the cruise control speed sensor. I am guessing that cruise control was an option, and that the speed sensor does not supply info to the PCM to aid in shifting points of the trans. I'm hoping that I am wrong.

Click to expand...

Well I did some additional searching online. From what I can assertain.

The speed sensor I noted above is the VSS.



The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a small signal generator that is turned by a gear inside the transmission assembly. The Vehicle Speed Sensor produces 8 pulse per rotation which a stock computer assumes 8000 pulses per mile. The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a variable reluctance sensor that generates a waveform with a frequency that is proportional to vehicle road speed. When the vehicle is moving slowly, the sensor produces a low frequency signal. As the vehicle speed increases, the sensor produces a higher frequency signal The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) supplies this signal to the components that require vehicle speed information including the speed control amplifier for cruise control equipped vehicles and computer. The computer uses the VSS signal for emmisions contol programs and speed limiters. The emmisions programing can cause a manual transmission vehicle to stall out while decelerating if no VSS is used.

I am now pretty certain that the EEC uses information obtained from this sensor (amoung others) to control the E4OD transmission. Changing the little gear that goes on the end of it (for the pre-'92) bronco's would change the speed it rotates thus changing the info supplied to the computer.

Just got back from Ford... They shipped the wrong gear. It and the TPS won't be in until Monday.

Enjoy the weekend.

yo!

Good on doing the self-test! Now Axiom can **** my .... bumper....

Test that EVP

Operation & Testing, Ford Source: by Ryan M

& Dustin has a sim. test process;

DTC 31, 32. 33. 34. 35. 38 or 84 - EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor & EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid (EVR) Testing. Source: by Dustin

read both of their "Possible causes"

miesk5 said:

Test that EVPOperation & Testing, Ford Source: by Ryan M

Click to expand...

Gentlemen:

Thanyou for your continued support and hand holding as I work my way through this problem.

According to the Haynes manual one must use a handheld vacuum tester to test the EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor. I don't have a handheld vacuum tester, at Sears they go for about $60. If I was a full time mechanic that would be a no-brainer decision. I do however have a cheap pressure/vacuum guage. The test requires one to pull 10 inches Hg vacuum for the EGR valvue to fully open, but according to this site...

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

8 inches of Hg vacuum will fully open the EGR valve.

I did a little experiment... I got out my cheap vacuum guage. I found that if I just breathed in on it, all I could get was about 1 in of vacuum, however if I used the muscles in my mouth, like if I was trying to **** ice cream through a straw I could pull 10 inches of vacuum. I mention this so that those without ANY vacuum guage they can still perform the test and feel fairly comfortable that they are fairly accurate without the need of any specialized testing equipment. Let's assume that I am average, and if we allow for a 20% difference, then the range of suction would go from 8-12 Hg vacuum. Still within tollerances.

So this is how the test is performed.

Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR and connect a new one. Either connect it to a handheld vacuum tester, or... **** on it like you are draw ice-cream through a straw. you may need to put your tongue on the tube, so that you can draw on it again. In my experiment I got between 6-8 in on the first draw, and then up to 10-11 on the second draw.



One should probe the terminals VREF and SIG-RTN with a voltmeter and check for reference voltage from the computer- (i.e. pull the wireing harness plug offf of the EVP and put your tester to the terminals inside the wireing harness ) it should be about 5.0 volts. This is done with the ignition key turned to the on position.

Next check the resistance across terminals EVP and VREF on the sensor itself. WIthout vacuum it should be about 5,000 ohms. With about 20 in.Hg of vacuum about 100 ohms. (watch for a smooth transition between the two ohm values.

Please reference this site for additional information

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

Ford EGR valves will open 100% at 8 inHg of vacuum. Therefore, 50% opening will be obtained by creating 4 inHg, etc.</p>

ok.. I'm gonna post this for now, and make additions or corrections when time allows.

joe

So I checked for five volts at the sensor from the computer, and I got it.

I checked the EVP and I got 3,630 ohms. It should have 5000 ohms

I put a rubber hose onto the EGR, and drew some vacuum, The resistance of the EVP dropped to about 600 ohms.

So I pulled the EVP to test it off of the vehicle.

With the plunger of teh EVP fully depressed the I got a reading of 336 ohms, the book says it should be 100 ohms.

SO in synopsis the book says there should be a range from 5000 to 100

and I got 3,630 to 336

Do you think the EVP is bad?

BroncoJoe19 said:

SO in synopsis the book says there should be a range from 5000 to 100and I got 3,630 to 336

Do you think the EVP is bad?

Click to expand...

I asked a professional mechanic, and two guys at the parts counter of a local Ford Dealership, all three shrugged their shoulders and said... *maybe?*