Steering Box Adjustment
Posted 22 February 2008 - 05:10 PM
I can't remember - which way do you turn the adjustment screw to take lash out of the power steering gear box? It's been a few years...
This question should be seared into the home page
THAT is NOT an "adjustment screw" per se ..... it is a pre-load adj. screw used when building, or re-building the box.
Using it to remove "play" can poss. damage/crack the box.
Play that has developed, or is increasing, needs attention paid to the internal workings in the box...
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless. (with rag top-n-doors)
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
$30 homemade HEI elect. ignition.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..
Posted 22 February 2008 - 07:52 PM
Edited by Broncobill78, 22 February 2008 - 07:53 PM.
Posted 22 February 2008 - 10:25 PM
Posted 22 February 2008 - 10:45 PM
72 Daily Driver
- 5.0 EFI - NP435 - BB 9" 4.11 ARB Locked - D44 4.10 ARB Locked - Onboard Air - Front & Rear Disk -
- Yukon Axles - D & C Extreme Rock Bumpers - Hydro-boost - Stone Crusher Steering -
Motorstats.com Your Racing Headquarters
Posted 23 February 2008 - 02:55 AM
" sloppy " steering can be caused by a multitude of problems...
some are cheap fixes, some can become costly...
This is a list of things to check BEFORE attempting to adjust your steering box.
what condition are the radius arm bushings in
are all four "c" bushings in place
if you have a two or three piece steering shaft, what condition are the joints in
drag link end and tie rod end play
ball joint condition
wheel bearing adjustment
track bar bushing condition
toe in adjustment
steering stabilizer condition
loose steering box to frame bolts ( quite common on EB's with larger tires)
is the sector shaft in the steering box "jumping" up and down...
(this would require the previously mentioned adjustment, NOT recommended for the novice wrench turner)
These items will require two people to check,
the tie rod ,drag link,sector shaft,and all bushings can be checked by having a friend sit in the truck and "wiggle" the steering wheel back and forth about 1/2" each direction, carefully watch each joint or bushing and look for play at each piece, for the steering box to move on the frame, or for the sector shaft to "jump" up and down ( the sector is the piece of the steering box that the pitman arm bolts onto.)
The ball joints and wheel bearings can be checked by jacking under the diff until there is a couple of inches under the tire,( use a jack stand to support the truck) grab the tire at 12 and 6, feel for top to bottom movement ( in and out) at the places you've grabbed. If you can't feel movement, the wheel bearings are ok.
Have a friend do this so you can watch the ball joints... do the same top/bottom "wiggle":
movement in the ball joints indicates wear.
Get a two or three foot lever ( steel bar works well) put it under the tire ( make sure the truck is still secure on the jack stand) gently lift the bar while watching the ball joints for movement, allow the tire to drop all the way between lifts,
up/ down movement in the ball joints indicates wear.
Toe in can be checked by measuring the difference between the centre of the tread on the front and back of the tires across the truck. Measure the tires at the same level to get an accurate measurement. The difference is your "toe-in".
Depending on your tire size, this should be anywhere from 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch.
To check your steering stabilizer, simply unbolt one end of it, see if it extends and collapses using the same amount of force each way. It should have a steady resistance all the way through its travel in either direction, without being harder one way or the other.
One other item to check while your truck is in the air is the axle u-joint, lock the hub, turn the steering to full lock ( either direction) and turn the tire. If you feel a tight spot as the wheel turns, make note of where the grease zerk is, if during the next rotation, the same resistance is felt at the same point in rotation, you have a bad axle u-joint. If you change an axle u-joint DON'T forget to grease the spindle bearings!!!
Good luck in doing your inspection... if you find any thing that you feel is worn, make a note of it and take it to your local shop, most places around here will do a
steering inspection like this for about 1/2 hours labor.
Serving Canadians since 1948.
There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness...
Running tally...16 over the last 20 years.
2nd owner 68, well used 69, two 73s and a 77 are currently in the stable.
Posted 25 February 2008 - 01:05 PM
All points well taken though & I appreciate the advice, and the concern.
'73 Sport - Bone stock. 302, 2bbl, C4. No rust yet!
Posted 25 February 2008 - 02:55 PM
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:34 AM
'73 Sport - Bone stock. 302, 2bbl, C4. No rust yet!
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