lets see your engine compartment

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Seabronc

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Here is the result of my summer project to clean it up and relocate the battery to the back. Also visible are my Saginaw V-belt conversion, Electric fan and control, Under hood fuse box to replace the fusible links plus make adding the other stuff neater, disconnect to rear battery, improved grounding, expanded switched 12V distribution, throttle kicker to bump the idle when the fan kicks on while waiting for a red light, ground distribution lug (just under the 175 amp Mega fuse) and 3G alternator hook up. The clean up is not quite as appreciable unless you could have seen it with all the experimental wire hookups.

:)>-

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2NDTOUR89

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Holy Cr.. That is a nice clean setup... Is it my imagination or on the ends of your battery cables are there spark plug boots? I think I just figured out how to keep my terminals protected..

Nice job.. I am jealous and now have alot more time and work to do on mine..

 

Seabronc

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Is it my imagination or on the ends of your battery cables are there spark plug boots?
Those are Masster Disconnect protective boots which are vailable frm American Autowire P/N 500735 @ $5.00 a pair. The company is set up around GM products, but they have a lot of individual parts that you can use on any vehicle. http://www.americanautowire.com You can download their catalog.

Believe it or not, what you see started with finding a tiny little leak in my transmission cooler. I decide to change the cooler which lead to re-piping it to the transmission, which lead to removing a plate that blocked air to part of the radiator, which lead to deciding to change the fenders and hood for the ones I've had on the garage for 3 to 4 years, which lead to deciding to clean up the trashy wiring all over the compartment that supported my electrical modifications, which lead to relocating the battery so I could use the space for an under hood fuse box to eliminate fusible links, which lead to painting the frame with POR15, which lead to painting the inside of the engine compartment :rolleyes: .

:)>-

 
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2NDTOUR89

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I think my original statement still stands.. Holy Cr..lol

I love it, I tend to get in these kinds of modes as well, just glad to see that I am not the only one...

Great job.

 

bidibronco

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Is that a master disconnect or easy disconnect that you have a + and - running into? What part number is that by chance? I want to have a quick and easy way to pull out my subs when I need to throw stuff in the back of my Bronco without having to pull my fuse and spend 15 minutes unscrewing my wires and making them all fit somewhere nice so they're out of the way. Know what I mean?

 

Seabronc

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Is that a master disconnect or easy disconnect that you have a + and - running into? What part number is that by chance? I want to have a quick and easy way to pull out my subs when I need to throw stuff in the back of my Bronco without having to pull my fuse and spend 15 minutes unscrewing my wires and making them all fit somewhere nice so they're out of the way. Know what I mean?
Actually I had originally made up those cables for jumper cables with a permanent battery connection. When I decided to relocate the battery, they seemed like an easy way to disconnect the battery from under the hood and make the battery connection. I have the rear 1/2 mounted to the fender with the front 1/2 free to pull out if need be. The cables are 1/0 copper battery cables. The connectors are available in several sizes depending on what size cable you are running.

Cable and connectors are available from several sources. Locally I can get the Anderson SB series connectors and lugs from Grainger through our commercial account, (a kit comes with one housing and two contacts). So you would need two kits. The kits come for #6 AWG, #4 AWG, #2 AWG, 1/0 AWG, and 2/0 AWG and in 3 voltage ratings Red (24V), Gray (36V) and Blue (48V). http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/categorie...able-connectors or http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAW...DB21022+M37+ENG

:)>-

 

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