Well, I finally got the conversion completed. actually it has been done for a couple of weeks, but I wanted to wait while I evaluated it before updating this thread. I learned a couple of things along the way;
1. It doesn't seem that anyone has done this conversion on a V-belt engine, at least I couldn't find a write up on it

. All the writeups I could find were done on Serpentine belt systems and I am unwilling to go that far in converting, so I had to come up with my own method, also I suspect that the bracket I used may be a little harder to find than the one for a Serpentine system. I will try to do a half way descent write up soon, I took a lot of pictures, the final installation picture attached, take a

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2. The hose problem I initially had, finding one that matched my fittings, was due to the fact that the Saginaw pump can have two styles of High pressure connections. One with a double flare seat and one that takes an O-ring fitting (Powercraft 71202)

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3. If you get a junk yard pump, buy a rebuild kit, you never know what the internal condition really is and rebuilding with the exception of replacing the shaft bushing is a breeze

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4. Yes, the shaft bushing

. I read all the writeups by people who had rebuilt the Saginaw PS pump I could find and they all avoided any comment on the bushing except to say, "well the bushing is OK so I didn't need to replace it". Personally, I believe they were avoiding the truth. It is a testament to the Saginaw design that it can run just fine with a lot of internal damage. One of the pumps I rebuilt had a chewed up bushing and seriously scored rotor from metal pieces running around inside the pump.
Any way, back to replacing the shaft bushing. To do this, you need the availability of a hydraulic press, fortunately I maintain a good relationship with a professional mechanic and could use his. To press the old one out, you need a 15 MM impact deep socket or a 16 MM standard deep socket, they fit perfectly inside the bushing seat without binding and the job is a breeze with the right tool

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5. The bottom line is I am ecstatic with the result. It doesn't wine, squeak, etc. and the steering is a breeze. I finally don't feel self-conscious about the noise coming out of the engine compartment with everyone staring at my truck wondering when it is going to fall apart

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Fred
Parts replacement is not trouble shooting, replacement follows trouble shooting
Broncos are MPVs not SUVs
Communication: I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I didn't say what I meant.
Some of my pictures at Supermotors http://www.supermotors.net/212
1983 Full Size Bronco with; Ford 8.8" 3.08:1 Rear; Dana 44 3.08:1 Front; WARN Premium locking hubs; 31x10.5's; NP208; Holley 4160 4bbl; MSD 6AL Ignition; MSD Blaster 2 coil;
1978 Saginaw Pump V-Belt Power Steering;
1984 F150 Dash;
1985 351W HO;
1985 Tilt steering wheel;
1993 Mercury Sable 3G 130 Amp Alternator;
1995 F150 doors;
1995 20 inches of rear portion of the tub;
1996 Bronco tail gate;
1996 Eddie Bower Over Head Console;
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII 4200 CFM Electric Fan;
Headlight harness upgrade; DRLs; Battery relocated to rear; Under hood fuse box vs fusible links; Upgraded wiring for rear window to 10 AWG;
Always under restoration