Well, that explains a few things!! (EGR discovery)

[91BroncoPickup]

Went to do a simple clean up and replacement of a few simple parts... And discovered this cracked at the connection point to the block, and the line severed midway! Can't make a seal and produce vacuum with that mess going on.

Well, that explains a few things!!

New EGR, EGR sensor, gasket and the EVR sensor on the opposite side of the block already in hand... But now I'm waiting on a new EGR line altogether as well. Ain't we got fun?

(BTW, I'd considered an EGR delete altogether, but can't find definitive info that supports the benefits - seem like Ford engineers knew what they were doing. Go figure.)

 

[L\Bronco]

Should solve a few issues for sure.
An EGR delete on those old ones usually nets a check engine light forever and possible pinging that can be fixed by knocking the ign timing back a couple degrees, which results in poorer fuel economy (Yes its possible), and a drop in power.
So I think you are going about it the right way for sure.
Good luck with it
Cheers

 

[miesk5]

Yo,
Yep!
For posterity

 

[Motech]

(BTW, I'd considered an EGR delete altogether, but can't find definitive info that supports the benefits - seem like Ford engineers knew what they were doing. Go figure.)

Yeah, Ford knew what they were doing with their EGR better than most. They really do minimize the amount of flow occurring when you need power better than all the others, so deleting them does not gain a whole lot.

Where it would help is off-roading, with low engine RPM under higher loads. EGR flow is at the max under those conditions, which is where you need max power instead. In that case, if it's interfering with off-road prowess, simply disconnecting the vacuum hose from the valve will take care of it. Sure, it'll eventually turn on the light, but it'll turn it back off every ignition cycle, and hooking the valve back up will keep it off.

If you want to permanently disable the EGR with no check engine light, just fashion a block off plate between the valve and the intake manifold, reinstall the valve with this plate sandwiched between two gaskets and leave everything else hooked up. This will eliminate the flow when the valve is opened, but will still allow the sensor to move up and down with the valve and keep the check engine light off.

 

[91BroncoPickup]

Well... got the new EG line... Anyone have an idea what size wrench is needed on that bottom connection point to the exhaust manifold? Is that 1 1/4? Or is it 32mm? (BTW, I've been soaking the old fittings with PB Blaster for about 5 days now, can use a torch if needed to heat it up.)

 

[miesk5]

Yo 91BroncoPickup,
See "tools needed to replace the in EGR valve pipe in a 91 Ford Bronco 5.8" @

In 92-96 Broncos it is a 1 1/16 wrench

 

[91BroncoPickup]

I got it with a 32mm... And some ugga duggas!

That's SeaFoam burning off all the carbon crud before I put the new peices on.

 

[91BroncoPickup]

YouTube clip

SeaFoam in the '91 BEFORE new parts!

Burn off that old carbon crud BEFORE you put those new parts in!! (Also noticed, I left off one sparkplug wire! So that was only firing on 7 cylinders !)

 

[91BroncoPickup]

Here's the 1st crank with new EGR Valve, EGR Sensor, EGR tube and EVR Sensor... And NO CEL!!!

 

[91BroncoPickup]

First crank after new Ignition Coil (decided to go ahead and update it with a new one)...

 

[91BroncoPickup]

I meant to share this picture a couple weeks back... Good grief, ya'think it was overdue? Maybe a bit? (yes, cylinder #4 had an original Motorcraft in it still! 32 years old?!?)