Well I got a few good answers from all of you, but the problem is still there. I converted to dual exhaust and removed the o2 sensor ,well I put a new in and the truck is still running rich. Any help would be appreciatd I am going to put new plugs in tomorrow- platinum,Iput new wires and air cleaner, so I'm hoping to get better gas milage cause now it sucks.

What year?

EDIT: did you check for codes?

If you have a dual exhaust, I'm thinking that you should have 4 O2 sensors in all.

What year is your truck, and did you pull codes?

No did not pull codes cause they told me with the light blinking on and off they couldn't. It is a 1995 5.8L, and how many o2 sensors are there on this truck I heard there is only one and that is the only wire I see under the truck.

I think there were originally 2 O2 sensors in the vehicle. One before the cat and one afterward (?)

Who is "they"? You can pull the codes your self... http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Personally I like this thread on pulling codes.
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=74587

Regarding the number of O2 sensors, it may be that there is only one. HEGO... heated.
It would be before the cat.

I looked in my EVTM for my '90 and I only see one.
I looked up a '98 F150 and there appear to be four.

I am guessing that the '95 being a OBD I still used one. and the '96 being a OBDII may use 2-4

I'm sure that someone who really knows will set us straight.

Don't forget to check for vacuum leaks!

Checking for vacuum leaks.
Some of the sensors and some of the actuators either read the amount of vacuum, or use vacuum to move controls, therefore it is important to the proper functioning of the engine that your vacuum system is fully intact. Otherwise one may get codes falsely indicating that there is a problem with a controller/actuator, or a sensor when in reality it is caused by a lack of vacuum.

Look at your rubber vacuum hoses (they are about 1/4 - 3/8 inches in diameter, if they are dry rotted or cracked, replace them. IF they slip on/off of their connectors too easily, they may have stretched out a little bit, cut the ends off, and put them back on.

You may listen for a leak. Sometimes using a cut off piece of garden hose is a good aid to listen with. Sometimes a cardboard tube (like from gift wrapping paper) is helpful. Just remember that whenever you stick your head inside a running engine compartment, that you are not wearing any loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught.

Another suggestion is to use a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the bottom of the intake manifold, and the base of the throttle body assembly. IF there is a leak, you should hear a change in your engine.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy, or use water instead of carb cleaner (it works, but not as well.) Be aware that if you use water and the wires get wet and it runs worse... your wires may be bad, and the water is allowing them to arc instead of jump the gap of the spark plug.

Another suggestion is: to take a propane torch, turn it on (but don't light it) and move it over the vacuum hoses and connections. The engine RPM's will increase if there is a leak and the propane gets sucked in.

Also be sure to check the PCV valve, hose and grommet

Ehh, I'll stick with Ryan's website. Thanks for the link tho

The '95 down Fuel inJected Bronco's which were OBD I used a single o2 sensor before the first of two cats. In '96 the switch was made to OBD II and kept the two cat setup but went with two sensors on before and one after both cats.

Also there can be codes when there is no light on. There are two types as well KO and KOER. Thats Key Off and Key ON Engine Running

Hey BroncoJoe19, Just FYI there is only one on the 95 which was located on the "Y" pipe between the two exhaust tubes. --Vince.

Hehehe.. thanks guys... there's so much crap to remember!