Fuel tank done

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Justshootme84

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Looks clean, dude!!! Can you give more details on the fuel system parts, like brand and specs? I'm putting stuff together for my 460 using a fuel cell. JSM84

 
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freak

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I used the stock tank but I had a sump welded in it. The pump is an Aeromotive,it's the Street strip pump(part# AEI-11203),not the H/O pump.This pump has to have an external regulator because it will flow 18psi pf fuel.The fuel system is all Aeroquip,I have a -10 (5/8") line going from the tank to the pump with a 100 micron filter before the pump. I have a -8 (1/2") line going from the pump to the rugulator, with a 10 micron filter after the pump. At the regulator I'm running a -8 return line back to the tank, and a -6 (3/8") line going to the carb. I could of used a pump that was already internally regulated but I wanted a return style instead. With a return style, the pump will run cooler and you will alway's have a cool supply of fuel coming from the tank. Since the unused fuel will go back to the tank. The system I have will support 700 horse no problem,it's a bit over **** but when I add nitrous the fuel system is already set up for it. The electric pump's are a pusher pump's, not a puller like a stock mechanical pump. Your going to want and install it as close to the fuel cell as posible.Like I mentioned earlier I used Aeroquip fitting's and hoses on everything because I wanted the professional look. It's definetly expensive.Between all the component's I have in the fuel system I probably have close to 800 buck's invested. Any question's you have I will be more than happy to answere them for you.

 
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Justshootme84

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Thanks for the info!!! I was looking at using an electric fuel pump, rated at somewhere around 90-120 gph, and 4-7 psi and a regulator for my 770cfm Holley truck Avenger carb. A 15/16 gal fuel cell mounted in the bed where the rear bench used to be. I've seen a couple of kits like from JEG's or Summit with most of the parts and fittings. JSM84

 

79highrider

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The only thing with that setup that you have in the picture is that it looks like it all hangs really low, any issues with that?

 
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freak

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No,with the 9 inch lift and 38" inch tire's it's not to low.That's why I had the sump put in the tank facing the rear axle so I could have the pump and everything better protected.

 

Justshootme84

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I thought the same thing about the pump hanging down, but then noticed the top of the rear axle. That's got tons of room, and looks fine.

Freak, do you have any links on assembling the braided steel hoses and -AN fittings, or can you post a quick write-up on how to put those togwther? I think I know how to do it, but this will be my first attempt. I should have all of the parts except the fuel cell by this weekend, so I can start plumbing the fuel system from the carb back at least.

 
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freak

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The blue line is a push together style. It's rated at 250 psi,all you have to do is push the hose over the barbed end,trust me it's a pain in the nut. The braided style is a little easier to me. The important thing is make sure you have a smooth cut on the stainless steel braiding.I used a high speed cut off wheel in my air grinder to cut it. Once you try to push the hose into the socket the braiding is going to want to fray. So I sometimes push it in with a twisting motion or I'll put some tape around the end so it won't fray on me. It may take you a few time's to get it but once you do It's not that bad at all.

 

Justshootme84

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Right, I think using tape helps keep the braided line from fraying. I'm still confused on whether to use Teflon tape or a liquid **** to connect the -AN fittings. My Dad's argument is he doesn't like Teflon tape, and I can't argue with him on that. JSM84

 
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freak

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Don't use anything to connect the fitting's.They don't recommend it.The only place I used teflon tape is if I have a NPT fitting. Other wise I didn't use nothing. Now they are selling different type's of fitting's that just use a rubber washer for sealing if your coming off the pump or a regulator.

 

Justshootme84

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Yes, I think both the pump and regulator use 3/8" NPT fittings. I have -8AN hose from the fuel cell to the pump, then -6AN hose to the reg and carb. One of my big questions is where to use tape/sealer and where not to.

 
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freak

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Use it on the NPT side of the fitting's only. If it's 3/8 NPT on ons side and -8 on the other, just use the tape on the 3/8 side not the -8 side.

 

Justshootme84

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Thanks, Freak!!! Thanks for the replies!!! I found an old AeroQuip catalog of my Dad's, it has everything I need to know about hose types, fitting the ends, and routing. JSM84

And I'm only using the -6 hose from the regulator to the carb, -8 hose from the pump to the regulator. THe reg has one input and two outputs. Can I run one to the carb and the other back to the fuel cell as a return line?

 
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freak

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There is a difference in regulator's. The return Regulators have a port specific for the return system. It just hold's back the pressure to keep the fuel PSI at what you set it at and the rest goes back to the tank. Your going to want to get a bypass style regulator which is a return style, a regular one will not work.

I have a 4 port bypass regulator on mine, you can use a 2 port though. When hooking it up the supply line from the tank will go into one of the side port's and the return to the tank will go from the bottom port. On mine the blue line in the side is the supply line from the tank and the braided line at the bottom is the return.

dsc00603.jpg

 
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Justshootme84

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Yeha, after thinking more about it today, I would only get half the fuel to the carb if I ran the other line to the tank, since it's not a bypass reg. I can't reply to PM's, but you can e-mail me thru superford.org (link in my profile) about the AeroQuip parts, Randy

 
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freak

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The electric pump will last longer and run cooler if it's not to be run deadheaded. Which mean's the pump is alway's running at max pressure.

 

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