95 5.8L may have been flooded in IKE...I got FOAM, foam on dipstick / under oil cap Options

[95eddiebauer]

I recently had a 95 eddie bauer 5.8L transported to me from galveston TX. I'm pretty sure it was there for hurricane IKE. I checked the oil when I first got it, and it seemed okay besides alot of rust-type residue(which could be a whole other story). It's starting to get really cold here, and I have only used the truck to go to and from work so far, as it has 260K+ miles on it. Upon checking the oil today, the dipstick was covered in thick white foam. Could that be from water vapor in oil not getting to temp from short drives in cold weather?... or possibly an after effect from going through the hurricane? I've been driving it for about 2 weeks now.
any suggestions appreciated before I go take it to a mechanic!!

thanks

[2percent]

sometimes moisture will cause foam on oil cap but if your oil is milky foam sounds like headgasket to me

[bobstrat]

i agree with 2%. does it use anti freeze?

[95eddiebauer]

i agree with 2%. does it use anti freeze?

yeah it uses antifreeze.... and I just checked it again and it's fine after sitting for about an hour or so. it seems to get foamy when it runs, and then settles out as it sits.... what should I expect to pay for new headgaskets installed?

thanks

[2percent]

depends on where you get it done honestly ive seen it from 200-700 depending on vehicle and gaskets they use or if head needs machined. Get multiple quotes if possible and go with reputable shop. I do my own so I cant really help alot here

[BroncoJoe19]

If you really think that it might have been underwater, then give it an oil change, and say a prayer.

If you are loosing coolent, and don't see it dripping, then the oil change is probably a waste of $15 - $20.

[2percent]

another thing you can try is look behind the door panels or under dash and see if there is mud or dirt if it was a flood vehicle there will be evidence of it being submerged usually

[50joe]

If its a head gasket, plan on spending some money. You dont do one, you do both. And with that kind of mileage, your askin for trouble. My reccomendation is to either 1: completely rebuild that motor, or 2: buy a long block. For what it costs to put new head gaskets on a 351, you might as well go all the way and be done with it.

[bobstrat]

i would run a compression test on it. at the very least i'd hook a vacuum gauge up to it, just to be sure it is a gasket problem before i took it to a mechanic. it sounds very much like it's the gasket, but taking a 260k motor to a shop for head gaskets is opening a can of worms. i'd decide how much the truck is worth to me, then either go with the rebuild/long block, as 50joe suggested above, or find another running small block. you could find a decent junkyard motor for the price of the head gasket job. i might actually do both, put a running engine in it, and rebuild the old one with no pressure to get it done quickly. let's you save money for the high quality/performance parts, instead of cutting corners because the truck is down.

are you anywhere near NJ?

This post has been edited by bobstrat: Oct 23 2009, 11:01 PM

[95eddiebauer]

i would run a compression test on it. at the very least i'd hook a vacuum gauge up to it, just to be sure it is a gasket problem before i took it to a mechanic. it sounds very much like it's the gasket, but taking a 260k motor to a shop for head gaskets is opening a can of worms. i'd decide how much the truck is worth to me, then either go with the rebuild/long block, as 50joe suggested above, or find another running small block. you could find a decent junkyard motor for the price of the head gasket job. i might actually do both, put a running engine in it, and rebuild the old one with no pressure to get it done quickly. let's you save money for the high quality/performance parts, instead of cutting corners because the truck is down.

are you anywhere near NJ?

I'm in N carolina currently, and have no mechanical experience whatsoever. Otherwise, I would love to do it myself. I just moved here from Tahoe, and don't know a good mechanic yet. This is my sole form of transportation, besides shoes. I fell in love with the truck as it is a hand-me-down from my father in law who was a bronco enthusiast, and went on many many rallies back in his day. I would hate to see it die.... but I figure if it breaks down, then I'll slowly have it worked on as I can afford it, but I would never give it up...it's body and interior are in great shape, and I'm starting to think these are the kinds of things you hold on to after being a member of bronco zone for a couple weeks... ;D

[riggermortis]

i wouldnt suggest driving it any longer until you find out whats wrong. if it is a head gasket and you get too much water in a cylinder it could "hydraulic" and that would be catostrophic engine damage ! ie.. broken piston / rod / block ect... i seen this happen on a ford 3.8 v6 it had a little leak and was just producing steam out the tailpipe then the gasket gave away all at once and filled the cylinder with water while it was running, then bang it was done.

This post has been edited by riggermortis: Nov 2 2009, 03:49 PM

[95eddiebauer]

i wouldnt suggest driving it any longer until you find out whats wrong. if it is a head gasket and you get too much water in a cylinder it could "hydraulic" and that would be catostrophic engine damage ! ie.. broken piston / rod / block ect... i seen this happen on a ford 3.8 v6 it had a little leak and was just producing steam out the tailpipe then the gasket gave away all at once and filled the cylinder with water while it was running, then bang it was done.

I finally got some pics uploaded in my albums of the truck, and the questionable foam under the oil cap..... here it is.

any suggestions?..... also, the valve at the top of the picture that looks like a bike tire valve seems to be leaking fuel. Should I cap this valve or does it need to be left open? (**clueless**)

any assistance is greatly appreciated.
thank you...

Attached thumbnail(s)

 

[riggermortis]

i would do compression test on it. your local napa, checker, autozone, ect.. should have a tester to loan/rent and tell you how to use it its pretty simple. as far as the schrader valve no its not supposed to leak and it does work just like a tire valve. and you should be able to pick one up when you get the compression tester.