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> Water in engine oil!!!!
JRose_89
post Oct 3 2009, 08:36 AM
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Now I have water in the engine oil!!! I know where the problem is, however I don’t know what to do or how to get the water out. The problem happened after I replaced my intake and gaskets. The guy at the parts store told me that “ these are fel pro self sealing gaskets and they don’t need any sealer”. So I took his advise and now I have water in the oil!! I have pulled everything and am now starting over. This time I am using a good sealer!!!! Any ideas on how to get the water out of the oil??? It is a fine green-milky color from the valves down to the pan.
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miesk5
post Oct 3 2009, 10:37 AM
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Too bad J!
Hope it isn't hydrolocked.

Don't think of starting it; remove negative battery cable, then +_ cable

drain the oil - replace filter w/a cheap filter; wipe off dipstick each time if it has the milky (water) color on it
Fill with a light weight Cheap engine oil
Drain oil and change filter - check for milky color in both filter and drained oil
Reapt until milky color is gone

Fill with your normal oil & filter
If you feel the water is basically gone now, run engine to warm up oil
A few days later check the oil again. If it has a milky color, change engine oil and filter once again
Also Consider SEA FOAM
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html
Call around, find an old timer garage that has an oil extractor; read about it here;
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

read about sludge & flushing oil there too

Those extractors were used down in Gulf Coast years back after canes came through and folks HAD to get in their trucks (not many cars in the parts where I was) and drive to safety.

This post has been edited by miesk5: Oct 3 2009, 10:39 AM


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Steve83
post Oct 3 2009, 12:30 PM
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All intake gaskets are coated & should NOT have additional sealant applied. The only exception would be Indian Head Gasket Varnish around the coolant journals.

But I think it's more likely you didn't torque the intake properly, or it's warped or pitted.


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JRose_89
post Oct 3 2009, 12:44 PM
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QUOTE (Steve83 @ Oct 3 2009, 12:30 PM) *
All intake gaskets are coated & should NOT have additional sealant applied. The only exception would be Indian Head Gasket Varnish around the coolant journals.

But I think it's more likely you didn't torque the intake properly, or it's warped or pitted.


What is "Indian Head Gasket Varnish"?
Also honestly I just bolted it down, Did not know it needed to be torqued. If you could do you know the specs?


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Yardape
post Oct 3 2009, 01:17 PM
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Take meisks advise, only you can expect to do it more than once. May take a few oil changes to get it all oit depending on how long it ran for. Its not the end of the world, I have done it and not a big deal if you follow meisks directions. Yes there is a sequence to torquing the intake and must be followed. Steve has some diagrams on his supermotors page that will show you the correct sequence if you do not have this available. Also now would be a good time to grab a torque wrench if you dont have one.


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Steve83
post Oct 3 2009, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE (JRose_89 @ Oct 3 2009, 03:44 PM) *
What is "Indian Head Gasket Varnish"?
Google or your local parts store will be able to answer that. wink.gif
QUOTE (JRose_89 @ Oct 3 2009, 03:44 PM) *
Did not know it needed to be torqued.
I guess I hit THAT one on the head! biggrin.gif Almost everything with more than 3 fasteners has a torque sequence, and everything has a torque spec (but not all are so critical). But anything that has to form a seal &/or has a mating machined surface (like the intake, heads, ex.man.s, lug nuts) needs to be torqued in a pattern, AND to the correct spec. Steel & Aluminum aren't as rigid as they look, and when you tighten something down out-of-sequence, it warps & wrinkles. Some parts will even crack. Get a good manual (I recommend Haynes or Ford) and read through each procedure A FEW TIMES before beginning so you know what to expect.



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This post has been edited by Steve83: Oct 3 2009, 07:49 PM


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92broncomann
post Oct 4 2009, 04:33 PM
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Fastest way i know to get water out of your oil, without having to but lots of oil, is Drain your tainted oil and then go buy about 5 gal of DIESEL FUEL, and run it thru the engine a few times for about 30min and then drain and fill with clean oil.


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50joe
post Oct 4 2009, 06:16 PM
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have heard about the diesel fuel trick, but have a few reservations about it. I have dealt with this before, and all I have ever done is just keep changin the oil. Is it a pain in the ass? YES. but very much needed. Doesnt take very much water in oil to eat the crap out of the internals. Flush the hell out of it, and chalk it up to live and learn.


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Steve83
post Oct 5 2009, 06:35 AM
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If you're gonna pour something OTHER than oil into your crankcase to remove water, it should be rubbing alcohol (70% or higher) or ethanol (everclear, white lightning, SLX denatured alcohol). They'll absorb the water into the old oil so it can be drained away, but then any residue will boil out quickly so the new oil isn't contaminated further.


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JRose_89
post Oct 28 2009, 08:31 PM
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Ok guys here is an update. It seems that I finally got everything running and working correctly, well almost. Once I got the intake on correctly, I was then able to flush the engine oil and coolant systems. To complete the engine oil flush I just asked the guy at the jiffy lube if he could get me some clean but used oil. In about an hour he called me with a 5-gallon bucket of it. It only took about half of the bucket to flush out the oil system. I then just used regular water to flush the engine coolant system. So now I just need to know what engine coolant do I need to get? Or does it matter? And I need help on the last two problems, that is now I am still receiving fault code 172 (o2 sensor fault) and the other problem is that my temp gauge is not working?
Other then that all systems are a go. I can even smoke my tires now!!! rolleyes.gif
Everyone thanks for your help!!!


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Steve83
post Oct 29 2009, 03:04 PM
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QUOTE (JRose_89 @ Oct 28 2009, 11:31 PM) *
So now I just need to know what engine coolant do I need to get? Or does it matter?
Yes, it matters a LOT. Read the last paragraph of this article, and read the rest when you have time.
QUOTE (JRose_89 @ Oct 28 2009, 11:31 PM) *
...I am still receiving fault code 172 (o2 sensor fault)...
What's the WHOLE definition?
QUOTE (JRose_89 @ Oct 28 2009, 11:31 PM) *
...my temp gauge is not working?
Read this caption:



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JRose_89
post Oct 30 2009, 05:17 PM
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[quote name='Steve83' date='Oct 29 2009, 03:04 PM' post='100322']
Yes, it matters a LOT. Read the last paragraph of this article, and read the rest when you have time.What's the WHOLE definition?Read this caption:

o2 sensor (right bank lean)
So can I use Green antifreeze?


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Steve83
post Oct 31 2009, 06:49 AM
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So now you need to find out why that sensor would indicate a lean condition. Is there an exhaust leak on that side? Check the 2ndry air system, too. Is the wiring damaged? Is the connector corroded?


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ElateDah73
post Nov 3 2009, 10:51 AM
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what oil are you useing?

some of the oil i have here has the consistancey of water straight out of the drum.
IMHO if you had enough fuel in it to make the oil very watery you would have blown bearings by now.

you could have simply got a fuel blackage in the filter or air leak and was sucking air.
your fuel problem may not have anything to do with the oil.
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AdamDude04
post Nov 17 2009, 03:37 AM
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What's odd is I only get water in my oil in winter time.. not a lot, but enough to notice it. Truck runs like a champ though. Summer time, no traces what so ever. Odd indeed.


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Steve83
post Nov 17 2009, 06:37 AM
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Normal indeed - especially if you only make short drives. You have to drive long enough for the engine to fully warm up & boil all the volatiles out of the crankcase.


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