PCM? Engine Not starting

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Krafty

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okay so 302 efi I just checked the one injector connector with a test light connected to the negative side of the battery. in both wires the light was on when the key was on and the one side seemed like it dimmed but didn't turnoff when the engine was turning over.

should the light only be flashing on when its turning over? and not always on when the key is on?

and my check engine light is on but I don't know how to check for codes.

 
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Krafty

Krafty

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okay so the electrical to the injectors is good if thats what your saying about the dimming and stuff.

the engine would run on either so the air and compression and spark is good,

when the pump runs fuel pressure is good. but once the pumps stop the pressure drops to zero.

I put another fuel pump off another truck from the scrapyard on and that didn't fix it.

and the FPR seemed good when I checked it. the diaphram wasn't leaking or anything, also I tried clamping the return line to the tank in case the FPR was bad but still so residual pressure after the pump stops.

and unless a leaky set of injectors are tricking me, I have no fuel reaching my plugs at all, they are all bone dry.

so any ideas?

 
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Krafty

Krafty

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oh and the truck sat for 2 since it last ran. and apparently ran perfectly fine when it was parked.

 

BroncoJoe19

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It wouldn't hurt to check your grounds.

Here is a list of grounds for a '92 - '96 bronc

I took a look in my Haynes manual.

They list 10 separate grounds... A-J.

A. Starter mounting bolt

B. Right front of Engine compartment near the battery

C. Lower left front of engine

D. Right front of engine compartment on upper radiator support.

E. Left front of engine compartment Upper radiator support

F. Bottom of cowl panel

G. Rear of left fender apron

H. Behind bottom of right cowl panel

I. Left rear corner of cargo area near rear lamp assembly

J. Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member.

Ground number and locations in 1990 Bronco EVTM

G100 LH side of Radiator support

G101 RH side of Radiator support

G102 RH side of Radiator support

G103 LH rear side of engine, near knock sensor

G104 LH rear side of engine compartment, near electronic engine control (EEC) module, on the left fender close to the firewall

G105 LH Side of engine

G106 RH fender apron, near voltage regulator

G107 RH fender apron, at starter relay

G108 RH fender apron, at voltage regulator

G109 RH fender apron

G201 LH rear side of I/P (looking at the diagram it is at the bottom of the driver's side dash assembly. Screwed to the bottom edge, just to the left of the steering column. It is the ground for the instrument cluster)

G202 Behind RH cowl panel

G203 RH rear side of radiator support

G204 On steering column

G205 Behind Center of I/P (Dash), near speed control amplifier

G400 LH side of cargo area, near rear light assembly

G401 Below LH side of cargo area, near crossmember

G500 Inside driver's door, near left door speaker

 
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Krafty

Krafty

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how would the grounds be affecting it? from what steve83 said the signal to the injectors is good.

oh and its an 89

so either I got a bad pump from the scrap yard thats not closing the check valve, the injectors are leaking fuel pressure without leaking on the spark plugs. or its leaking in some random spot that I can't see. but there are no signs of leaking fuel.

I would like to not have to put new parts on it until everything else has been eliminated.

any other ideas or am I gonna have to spend money?

 
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Krafty

Krafty

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sorry that was 2 years.

lots of fuel pressure.... 30 to 40 psi when pump runs

No residual pressure....0 psi when pump stops

I got nothing from the codes test. every time I would try to check for codes the test light would turn off and so would the Check engine light after the fuel pump turned on again.

and I will do that injector test the next time I get a chance.

but with the fuel pressure problem. is it possible for an injector or bunch of injectors to be leaking pressure?

plus if they were leaking or stuck open then I would have fuel covered spark plugs right?

if they can only be stuck closed then that doesn't solve the zero residual fuel pressure issue.

the fuel rail should be at a constant 30 to 45 psi right?

it gets to peak psi every time the high volume pump runs so the low volume pump in the tank is working fine.

with dry plugs and a clamped FPR return line that leaves the fuel pump to hold pressure? or the fuel reservoir?

 
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Krafty

Krafty

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IT LIVES.

when I was trying the injector test, every so often the fuel pump would go off, and eventually the injectors started clickin and makin funky noises. so i hopped in the truck and it eventually started. it has 2 year old gas in it so it doesn't want to idle much at all, but I have no engine codes or anything so I think with some new gas this project will really be going somewhere.

Thanks for the Help

 

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